Evaporust v. Diet Coke?
#21
AHill said:


Diet Coke is an acid (more phosphoric and very little citric acid). Acids eat the metal underneath the rust, thus breaking the rust free. Evapo Rust works by a chemical process called chelation, where the rust is broken down and removed, leaving any metal behind. You can go too far with any kind of acid, but you can't with chelation. Chelation works until the rust is gone, then it stops. I like evapo rust for this reason. Citric acid is more gentle than most acids, if you mix it as cited in this thread. Just don't soak the thing then go on a 1 week vacation and expect to have intact parts waiting for you when you return.




Yup. +1

You can get rid of athlete's foot with hydrochloric acid. Or, use Lotrimin. Both work for jock itch, too. But, the driver in choice is probably availability. Soda's are at the nearest convenience mart. And, Borgs lack diversity.
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#22
Thanks everyone.
This will be interesting.

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#23
LIL

I've never felt the need to use chemicals to clean up planes, perhaps because I don't buy total rustbuckets, but I've yet to find one that steel wool and a brass wheel couldn't handle.


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#24
AHill said:


Diet Coke is an acid (more phosphoric and very little citric acid). Acids eat the metal underneath the rust, thus breaking the rust free.




Well, not totally. Naval Jelly and other acids perform a reduction of the surface iron oxide. Soluble salts are formed which may be wiped or washed away without abrasion.

Google "pickling of metal"
Better to follow the leader than the pack. Less to step in.
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#25
MichaelMouse said:


[blockquote]AHill said:


Diet Coke is an acid (more phosphoric and very little citric acid). Acids eat the metal underneath the rust, thus breaking the rust free.




Well, not totally. Naval Jelly and other acids perform a reduction of the surface iron oxide. Soluble salts are formed which may be wiped or washed away without abrasion.

Google "pickling of metal"


[/blockquote]

You are correct. The acids will react with the iron oxide to form iron "salts". Once the iron surface is exposed, however, the acid will begin to eat away the iron, hence the warning not to overdo it.
Still Learning,

Allan Hill
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#26
Not sure if the diet has anything to do with it. Back when we would dissolve, or seriously clean metals putting them in a dish of Coke. I do know that several 2 liters of Coke on sale, are a lot cheaper than a Gallon of Evaporust, and your tools probably won't be all white and chalky like they will with the Evaporust.

Other less expensive tricks are using Oxalic Acid, or Kerosene/Diesel fuel.
Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya

GW
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#27
Not sure if the diet has anything to do with it. Back when we would dissolve, or seriously clean metals putting them in a dish of Coke. I do know that several 2 liters of Coke on sale, are a lot cheaper than a Gallon of Evaporust, and your tools probably won't be all white and chalky like they will with the Evaporust.

Other less expensive tricks are using Oxalic Acid, or Kerosene/Diesel fuel.

Ohhhh Vinegar too.
Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya

GW
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#28
Quote:

Thoughts? I rather not waste my time or my Diet Coke testing this.




Plain old white vinegar works pretty well and it is cheapest..
Often Tested.    Always Faithful.      Brothers Forever

Jack Edgar, Sgt. U.S. Marines, Korea, America's Forgotten War
Get off my lawn !
Upset





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#29
hbmcc said:

You can get rid of athlete's foot with hydrochloric acid. Or, use Lotrimin. Both work for jock itch, too.



Do you mean the disease athlete's foot, or the actual athlete's foot? Seems like a strong enough solution would solve the problem of itchy feet forever.

I tried Coke (non-diet, I think) once to free up some piston rings, and got a syrupy mess of gunk with piston rings no more free than before. There may be some phosphoric acid in there, but there's a lot of other stuff, too, that doesn't seem likely to improve the tool's final finish.

Me, I use vinegar (cheap and available about everywhere there's stores with food in them), but if I were going to derust with phosphoric acid, I'd use Ospho, available at many hardware stores.
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#30
I have tried everything. If you have number of items use evapo rust. It is easiest to use and works best. I usually start with soaking in dawn water soap then use sos to clean scale and tough dirt. Then I plop it into a jar o Evaporust and let it sit for 24 hours. If it gets really black I clean black residue off with sos pad and plop back for another soak. The stuff just keeps working for me. To prevent flash rusting I then coat with 3-1 oil let dry and wipe. Get it at Harbor freight when it on sale and use the 20% off coupon. I have citric acid powder and i never use it anymore as long as I have some old jars of Evaporust. I never throw it away just pour the stuff into clean jar and leave the sluge dirt behind. Sometimes I add new Evaporost to the black stuff and it still works. If it freezes just add some hot water and reuse it.It is not that expensive to try them both and see what you prefer. For me it is all I use and it never fails me.
I used this method on this plane it was so rust covered and dirty I got it for a dollar or less.... It came out great.


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