German Silver, Stainless Steel and Ebony
#11
Hi Netters,

we've made a fine joinery saw that is different to our usual ones. It has a spine of German silver instead of brass. The steelish colour of this alloy goes well with the SS screws and with the ebony handle as we find. The downside is the difficult slotting of this alloy. Our machinist refuses to do this any more at .012 slots since he messed up a few bits while slotting it. So this saw probably will be one of three.

It's a 10" saw pitched at 18 tpi rip.













This saw will have its shop in the UK.

Klaus
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#12
Jewelry. Too nice to be used. Should be on display to demonstrate what the Two Lawyers are capable of.
Catchalater,
Marv


I did then what I knew how to do. Now that I know better, I do better.”
― Maya Angelou

I'm working toward my PHD.  (Projects Half Done)
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#13
MarvW said:


Jewelry. Too nice to be used. Should be on display to demonstrate what the Two Lawyers are capable of.



+ 1 - What Marv said.
Thanks,  Curt
-----------------
"Life can only be understood backwards; but it must be lived forwards."
      -- Soren Kierkegaard
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#14
If these saws are not so collectable now I would say your saws will be that way and a whole lot more in the future. Someday I hope to have a carcass and dovetail saw. Of course I will have to win the lottery first or sell a lot of my turnings.

I will have to say that you will have to make more of the backs like that!!!!

Arlin
As of this time I am not teaching vets to turn. Also please do not send any items to me without prior notification.  Thank You Everyone.

It is always the right time, to do the right thing.
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#15
Sehr Gut!
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#16
Nice. The ebony and German silver are beautiful. As is the sculpting. I like the length, also.
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#17
..+1
Often Tested.    Always Faithful.      Brothers Forever

Jack Edgar, Sgt. U.S. Marines, Korea, America's Forgotten War
Get off my lawn !
Upset





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#18
Klaus, you have a first class sense of the aesthetic ... that is a stunner.

I understand that, theoretically speaking, thinner plates are preferred for fine cuts. However, is there a noticeable difference between 0.012 and 0.015? If not, surely the latter would be better to use?

Regards from Perth

Derek
Articles on furniture building, shop made tools and tool reviews at www.inthewoodshop.com
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#19
Derek Cohen said:



I understand that, theoretically speaking, thinner plates are preferred for fine cuts. However, is there a noticeable difference between 0.012 and 0.015? If not, surely the latter would be better to use?






Good point, Derek. The ultra thin blade requires a clean push stroke, it's less forgiving than thicker blades. It may take a short time to get familiar with. But you will be rewarded. There is a noticeable difference to our thicker bladed dovetail saws that we offer with .016 and .020 blades. If both saws are pitched equally, the .012 saw wins the contest. It cuts quicker but the higher speed doesn't count too much. It's the easier and smoother cut of the thin blade that makes the difference. When I experienced this difference the first time with our very first thin bladed saw, I fell in love with it immediately.

There's some roumors that .012 bladed saws won't last very long. I can't confirm this. If that was the case, we certainly would gave got some reclamations. We had none so far in this regard.

The .012 bladed saws are designed to cut thinner stock up to 3/4", typically for drawers. So these saws are fine pitched (about 16 up to 20 tpi). And they have a limited blade depth up to 1 1/4". Both features combined with the fact that the blades are glued into the spine (what supports the stiffness of the blade) make this special saw to be surprisingly sturdy. I'm sure that someone who is used to saw with hand saws will like it. To a beginner we wouldn't recommend it wholeheartedly.

Klaus
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#20
Derek Cohen said:

However, is there a noticeable difference between 0.012 and 0.015?




Hi Derek,

0.012" (0.3mm) and 0.016" (0.4mm) are complete different animals. 0.012" feel like falling into the cerve. Remember the first sawing with a japanese saw? It's a bit like that.

With the same downsides. You have to let the saw do the work. Light touch only. If you press it, it will wander.

Cheers
Pedder
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