Posts: 17,152
Threads: 0
Joined: Aug 2006
There are no doors to worry about and windows won't be a problem. Windows were set to look normal from outside elevation and inside they actually seem kinda high. Bringing the floor up will make them normal. Ceilings are a flat 9 feet throughout house except in living room it's 9'9". The sunken living area has two walls, three outlets. I was there when the electrical was done and the power drops from the attic, so raising the outlets will be easy.
My mom hates the sunken room, so if we do this it will be permanent for as long as she lives there.
There are two kinds of people: Those who can extrapolate from incomplete data.
It is far better to grasp the universe as it really is than to persist in delusion, however satisfying and reassuring - Carl Sagan
Posts: 36,349
Threads: 3
Joined: Nov 2004
Location: RTP, NC
I'd just make it permanent. if the house is ever sold, they can demo it if they choose. if you only have 3 outlets, I might consider adding more and pulling the wiring under the new floor.
Posts: 22,127
Threads: 1
Joined: Aug 2006
Location: In a strange land
I would say Bob has the right idea, but I would most definitely use PT and stainless hardware.
Yes, I see that the location is Arizona, but if anyone ever irrigates or if it does ever rain, there is indeed a possibility of ground moisture coming up through the slab. That moisture will not have much air circulation to carry it out. Several times I have dealt with problems related to floor joists and framing without any air circulation. Results have always been unfavorable. In one instance there was a mix of PT and regular DF. The difference in the condition of the two types was dramatic. The extra cost for the PT/stainless would be a no-brainer from my perspective.
Posts: 30,906
Threads: 2
Joined: Mar 2003
Location: Athens, TN
Anak said:
I would say Bob has the right idea, but I would most definitely use PT and stainless hardware.
Yes, I see that the location is Arizona, but if anyone ever irrigates or if it does ever rain, there is indeed a possibility of ground moisture coming up through the slab. That moisture will not have much air circulation to carry it out. Several times I have dealt with problems related to floor joists and framing without any air circulation. Results have always been unfavorable. In one instance there was a mix of PT and regular DF. The difference in the condition of the two types was dramatic. The extra cost for the PT/stainless would be a no-brainer from my perspective.
I'd not bother. If there is no moisture issue now, there won't be one later. When these type of slabs are built, the perimeter on which the exterior wall sits is at the non-sunken level. There is no reasonable way exterior water gets there when it doesn't get anywhere else. If it does, I'd expect Noah any day. The house foundation is required to be above grade so casual water doesn't enter under the sill plate.
The caveat is if the house is in a flood plane and has had or has the potential for flooding. In that case, concrete is the best solution. I'd do this near an arroyo, for instance.
A few of my friends have done exactly this. Common lumber is all they ever use.
I hate working with PT. Its always wet, heavy and subject to warping.
Rocket Science is more fun when you actually have rockets.
"The Constitution is not an instrument for the government to restrain the people, it is an instrument for the people to restrain the government." -- Patrick Henry
Posts: 39,552
Threads: 0
Joined: Apr 2007
I own 5 houses on slabs and all the wood touching concrete is PT I imagine the builder would have gone regular doug fir if it was acceptable
Phydeaux said "Loving your enemy and doing good for those that hurt you does not preclude killing them if they make that necessary."
Phil Thien
women have trouble understanding Trump's MAGA theme because they had so little involvement in making America great the first time around.
Posts: 13,266
Threads: 0
Joined: Aug 2001
Location: Royersford Pa.
Around here it is code for pressure treated lumber in contact with masonry.
Twinn
Will post for food.
Posts: 236
Threads: 0
Joined: Sep 2004
Me and one other guy are the only ones voting for concrete fill? Seems like the best/fast" witst and probably cheapest solution to me. I lived in AZ for a couple of years in the late 90s. IME there, concrete crews are good, plentiful and fairly cheap compared to other skills. I guess because of the climate and good fit for concrete/stucco construction.
Maybe fill 5" with gravel or other fill and cap with concrete. One/two days at most and you're ready for the finish floor, carpet/tile/laminate(yuck)/or something.
Pump may be needed, but not knowing the accessibility I can't tell from here.
Posts: 4,767
Threads: 0
Joined: May 2010
sleepers and ply on top Quick and cheaper than concrete and faster also. Fill will cost almost as much as the wood
Posts: 14,694
Threads: 0
Joined: Sep 2004
Location: Butler, PA
I vote for framing with std lumber, but a check of local codes may be advisable. I vaguely recall back in the day, PT lumber was not permitted to be used for interior construction, at least around here. Something about chemical off-gassing or other. That would have been back in the CCA days of PT lumber. Don't know if those concerns are relevant with ACQ or not.
If you are going down a river at 2 mph and your canoe loses a wheel, how much pancake mix would you need to shingle your roof?
Posts: 20,865
Threads: 1
Joined: Sep 2003
Location: Sioux Falls SD
07-19-2016, 04:22 PM
(This post was last modified: 07-19-2016, 04:45 PM by Splinter Puller.)
Sand fill topped with a 3"-4" slab would match the surrounding floor. The hollow sound and feeling you will get with a wooden floor which is surrounded by a concrete floor will bug the heck out of everyone.
if you have to go wood, there is no need for 2x8's. use 3/4" floor sheathing on cheaper 2x6's @ 16" o.c. supported by ripped PT 2x4's on edge at 4'-0" perpendicular. Rip the 2x4's enough to align the finish floors. Glue the 2x4 down in a bed of PL adhesive. Use PL adhesive between the 2x6 and 2x4's and a few toe-screws.
WoodNET... the new safespace
