First attempt at making a saw handle

[ButImeasuredtwice]

The saw shown in post #5 is certainly not an early Disston # 10.  I have heard that Pete Taran had an etched # 10, which I've never seen.  Since the etches came in in the mid 1860's, it's possible that this saw is one of those later ones.  But since it appears to have a really late Disston medallion I'd tend to doubt it.  But without seeing the etch I can't really say.

[mr_skittle]

Oh boy, sounds like I'm speaking on things I don't know about. I called it a number 10 because of a 10 that is stamped in the steel at the heel of the saw. I don't really know anything about identifying these old saws and unfortunately I think the etch is too far gone for an identification. Not only do I need a lesson on handles, I have a lot to learn about the saws themselves. Since that knowledge dosen't affect me learning to saw, I'll study up when I've got the time. We've been celebrating our 1 year olds birthday the last couple days so I haven't had a chance to tinker at all. Once I have another chance in the shop I'm sure I'll have a report and more questions.

To address Klaus's last post; The broken handle is really uncomfortable. Much too large and crude compared to the Disson. It's also unfortunate that the Atkins saw template dosen't fit the hole pattern on the saw. At a glance none of the templates fit. I'll have to do a little measuring of my hand and find a handle that fits or adapt one. I just want to clarify, can i use any handle as long as the holes on the blade line up in a place on the handle that's safe for a hole? You know, a spot with plenty of wood around the hole. Finally, i do have a coping saw. I just didn't feel like going tthrough the effort of cutting out the handle yet since this was just a practice run.

[cputnam]

Just to add to your woes - read up about hang angle and the effect upon sawing.

[blackhat]

Your set of files is going to limit you and likely add a great bit of frustration and time. Before going further, please fit them with handles so we don't hear about any delays caused by healing puncture wounds. While not any resemblance of an expert, your second saw appears much like a D8, and some of them had quite decent handles. Check for a template marked as such. You can lay your blade on the template and mark your holes, if they seem too close to the edge, simply freehand a line to add a bit more material where you think it's needed.

[mr_skittle]

I took the time to read up on hang angle at Blackburn tools and it makes sense. Good thing i brushed up on my physics recently. I went back to TGIAG site that Klaus reccommended and i can see the difference between some of the handles labeled as rip and crosscut. I'll pick one of the rip handles and give it a try. I just need to pick one and try it. If it feels wrong I'll try a different one. Since I don't have access to a variety of tuned up saws, it's going to be some trial and error i guess.

I know i need to mount some handles on the tools but I wasn't really getting too serious when I took that picture. Blackhat, I don't know if you are a music fan, but as a Canadian I have to give my condolences about Gordin Downie's diagnosis. Long live the Tragically Hip!

[Bibliophile 13]

Glad you found Isaac's blogs posts at Blackburn tools.  He's got great info on every step of the saw building process, handle-making included.

I will say that a saw handle is a complicated project if you've never made anything with rasps and files before, but hey, one way to learn to swim is to jump right into the deep end.  On the handles I've made, I've normally started by sawing out as much as the profile as possible with a band saw, coping saw, bow saw, or whatever you happen to have.  Then I do most of the stock removal with rasps and follow up with files and sandpaper.  On your first handle, try to keep as close as possible to the pattern.  There are good reasons these handles are shaped the way they are.  But you can, of course, modify the pattern a bit to fit your own hand.  

One of the big challenges is work-holding.  I highly recommend a large handscrew held upright in a vise.  If you hold only one of the handscrew jaws in the vise, you'll be able to adjust the handscrew on the fly.  In the picture below, my vise racks a bit, so the handscrew jaw on the right just swings free.  





Here's a link to the first of a series of blog posts I did about saw making: blog post.

Not quite as instructive as Isaac's blog, but you might pick up some tips from another guy who has less-than-optimal tools for this kind of work.
[url=https://literaryworkshop.wordpress.com/2014/08/23/building-two-saws-part-1/][/url]

[mr_skittle]

Thanks for the advice Steve, especially about using the hand screw. I've learned all my woodworking by diving in the deep end. Read a few articles, watch a few videos, and ask questions here along the way. Its worked for me so far.

I figure a saw handle is pretty low stakes. I don't even really know how to use hand saws yet so if I screw it up it's not going to affect any of my projects. Besides, I feel like doing a total rehab on an old saw will give me good insight on using them once its time. Unfortunately my printer ran out of ink this week so there'll be no more templates and my handle making is on hold until I order new cartridges. Kind of ironic that my hand tool project has been derailed by technology.

[hbmcc]

This link is not a saw handle but follows the same principles. It's what I did, with really crappy tools....

https://www.canadianwoodworking.com/tips...ane-handle

[Adnick]

Konrad:

Very, very nice work.....


Regards,
Andy
Mos Maiorum