Swivel jaw vise repair, Part II
#6
For those of you who missed Part I, look here
https://forums.woodnet.net/showthread.php?tid=7323669

OK. So sometimes I don't pay attention to the forum I am in. Sorry for the issue. Anyway, when we last left our vise jaw, it had been patched with a big blob of JB Weld. It cured overnight and here is what I found this morning once I removed most of the foil.

[Image: DSCN0729.jpg]

Time to remove the junk. I have found that my tools of choice here are Japanese chisels. They are sharp, stay sharp, and get the job done.

[Image: DSCN0730.jpg]

Chipping away with the hammer and Japanese chisel is pretty easy. Surely easier than chopping out dovetails.

[Image: DSCN0731.jpg]

After about 15 minutes of chopping, I had removed a good bit of material. This was as far as I wanted to go with the chisels.

[Image: DSCN0736.jpg]

I moved on to sandpaper. The JB Weld clogs the sandpaper quickly. Luckily I had some used paper around that still had a little life in it.

[Image: DSCN0738.jpg]



Rocking out to the tunes, drinking coffee, sanding--it was a pleasant morning. While test fitting, I found a metal defect in the base that probably led to the original break. Mr. Dremel and needle files took care of that. You can see the shiny spot.

[Image: DSCN0741.jpg]

It's ALIVE! And it SWIVELS!

[Image: DSCN0742.jpg]

Now I can get back to cleaning and finishing. The swivel action is not as smooth as I want. It needs a little tune up with the files (gently). Then it will be time for a coat of BLO, followed by primer and paint. I am thinking of metallic blue for this little guy.
===---===---===---===---===---===---===---===---
Please visit my website
splintermaking.com
Reply
#7
BLO as in linseed oil? Do you have paint adhesion issues after that?
Benny

Reply
#8
Yes. My BLO is 60% boiled linseed oil and 40% turpentine. I clean the bare metal with mineral spirits or turps and let it dry. Then I brush on the BLO and let it sit for a few hours or up to a day before wiping off the excess. I wait a few days until it is not oily or sticky before applying primer. I like the BLO because it seems to "cure" the cast iron like grandma's frying pan. It flows well and provides a pretty good rust barrier, especially for interior parts. But the BLO does not seem to be as durable as paint, so I add a few coats for more rust protection and for appearance. Never had probs with paint adhering. Most old paint formulas were linseed oil based.
===---===---===---===---===---===---===---===---
Please visit my website
splintermaking.com
Reply
#9
No kidding! That's good to know. I used the rusty metal primer on my drill press and that's holding up great so far. I have a couple vises sitting under my stairs in the garage waiting for me to have time... I may give your method a try. Always enjoy your rehab sagas!
Benny

Reply
#10
I had an old house painter known for fantastic results tell me he prepped a home after scraping with a turpentine and BLO mix then let sit for two days before he painted it. I had never thought of using it on metal.
Reply


Forum Jump:


Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)

Product Recommendations

Here are some supplies and tools we find essential in our everyday work around the shop. We may receive a commission from sales referred by our links; however, we have carefully selected these products for their usefulness and quality.