Which Veritas plane blade and why
#11
I am looking to buy a low angle jack plane from veritas and was wondering which blade to get and why I should. I know nothing about the difference in these metals. I will be sharpening using a worksharp if that would matter. 
So which one? A2, O2, or a PM-V11.
Fill your heart with compassion, seek the jewel in every soul, share a word of kindness, and remember; the people's what it's about.
Capt. Tony Tarracino


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#12
In my opinion, PMV11 is the best for almost every situation.  I love it.

No way I would buy veritas plane without that steel.
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#13
I agree on the PMV-11 steel choice. It holds an edge forever, and with a Worksharp, sharpening is easy. I use waterstones, and there is a noticeable difference is sharpening effort between my high carbon, O1, A2 and PMV-11 blades. I actually find the PMV-11 to be easier than A2, but still more difficult than HC and O1. Power sharpening is great for tough tool steels.

I would advise you to get a toothed blade (which only comes in A2) as well for the LV low angle jack; I find it makes planing difficult areas much, much easier with far less tear out. Oh, and don't bother buying the higher angle blades - just get the 25* blades and add micro-bevels to get the angles you want; a micro-bevel is much easier to sharpen than a full bevel.
Jason

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#14
If you aren't familiar with LAs or Veritas LA planes, start with the basic, one PMV--everyone wants PMV--shallow bevel. Maybe, two blades. Play for a while. You may be less thrilled than others, and blades are pricey.The Norris adjuster had me in fits for awhile. The weight of an LA, combined with tote angle, can be a blessing, or irritation. Good if you have a higher bench, and enjoy light planes. The LAJ may be different than the LAS I use.

With an LAJ (and most LA designs) you can interchange blades fairly easily. Start with a couple PM blades. Crown one for rough work, and keep the second flat for more jointing related work. You can always regrind for different preferences. Starting with a blade of the lowest bevel angle saves metal and work down the road when you look to grind to a steeper bevel. I have a toothed blade for my LAS but don't care much for it; it's hard on my bad shoulders. The LAJ can be used for shooting--not recommended with the LAS. A shallower pitch helps when doing end-grain.
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#15
PM-V11 gets as sharp as O1 and sharper than A2. The edge will stay much sharper, much longer than your other choices.

JMO & YMWV
Thanks,  Curt
-----------------
"Life can only be understood backwards; but it must be lived forwards."
      -- Soren Kierkegaard
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#16
(10-30-2016, 09:08 AM)Jason28 Wrote: I would advise you to get a toothed blade (which only comes in A2) as well for the LV low angle jack; I find it makes planing difficult areas much, much easier with far less tear out. 
I got all excited when you mentioned they had toothed blades, but it's only for their low-angle smoother.  Oh well.
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#17
They offer toothed blades in A2 to fit most of their BU planes- 1-3/4", 2", and 2-1/4", plus toothed blades for the block planes also.
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#18
(10-31-2016, 11:26 AM)EricU Wrote: I got all excited when you mentioned they had toothed blades, but it's only for their low-angle smoother.  Oh well.

LV Toothed Blades

These cover most of the bevel up planes.
Jason

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#19
If I had to get only one type of steel, it would be PM-V11.  My experience mirrors the others.  As sharp as O1, but remains sharper much longer than both O1 and A2.  Easier to sharpen than A2, but that seriously only matters the first time you sharpen or if you need to re-establish a bevel.  I have one installed on my LAJ that I use as my shooting plane.  Slices pine end grain like butter, leaving a glassy smooth surface.  I use Sigma Power II waterstones to sharpen, and I hone on a strop to keep it sharp.
Still Learning,

Allan Hill
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#20
I was looking for a toothed Stanley blade, preferably in 2 3/8" Hock doesn't have any either, I guess I'll just do it the old fashioned way, with a dremel.
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