Removing glue II
#21
Arlin,

Reread my post I said plastic gift cards not credit cards and you know me personally so trust me on the acrylic brushes. I also know you and have seen some of the stuff you work with, powered metal and all. So if you are using something other than yellow glue as a glue  then I would stay with the acid brushes. Every thing I wrote applies only to yellow glue

Tom
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#22
Even cheaper throw aways - narrow strips of stiff cardboard backing from blister packs and from wood cut-offs. And a straight edge on it lets you level out the glue to the thickness you want.


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#23
Well here's my $.02

It doesn't matter how you get the glue on.  I use acid brushes almost exclusively. (So does Tommy MacDonald so how can it be wrong ha ha). I also use a small liver of wood or a small offset painters spatula (where is that darn thing?). 

As for gluing both sides, in most cases such as a panel glue up, it is not necessary (nor even desireable) to coat both surfaces. For joinery I think you should coat both surfaces.

I've been wiping glue off with a scraper followed by a wet cloth for a LONG time with no issues whatsoever.  I've watched many a master ww'er also do this, and Tommy MacDonald too so how can it be wrong? ;-) Curtis Buchanan cleans all his hide glue ups with water and a tooth brush follwoed by a rag.  I use a soft bristle tooth brush for corners followed by a scraper or chisel wrapped with a cloth.

I don't think you can be so didactic about it. The key, as mentioned, is learning how much glue to use.
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#24
Thanks Tom

When I do the powdered metals I use the Starbond E02 CA glue.

When I used Titebond Original it is for gluing vases together and that really does not matter if glue is all over.  Like I said I have never done fine wood working before and would have ALOT to learn and I will tag what you said to use later.
As of this time I am not teaching vets to turn. Also please do not send any items to me without prior notification.  Thank You Everyone.

It is always the right time, to do the right thing.
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#25
(12-12-2016, 11:56 AM)rwe2156 Wrote: Well here's my $.02

It doesn't matter how you get the glue on.  I use acid brushes almost exclusively.  (So does Tommy MacDonald so how can it be wrong ha ha).  I also use a small liver of wood or a small offset painters spatula (where is that darn thing?). 

As for gluing both sides, in most cases such as a panel glue up, it is not necessary (nor even desireable) to coat both surfaces.  For joinery I think you should coat both surfaces.

I've been wiping glue off with a scraper followed by a wet cloth for a LONG time with no issues whatsoever.  I've watched many a master ww'er also do this, and Tommy MacDonald too so how can it be wrong? ;-)  Curtis Buchanan cleans all his hide glue ups with water and a tooth brush follwoed by a rag.  I use a soft bristle tooth brush for corners followed by a scraper or chisel wrapped with a cloth.

I don't think you can be so didactic about it.  The key, as mentioned, is learning how much glue to use.

I would think if a person does not glue both sides and just one 1" section does not mate up with the rest and get glue on it that it would be less stable?

When both you and Tom mentioned Soft bristle brush I also just thought of a tooth brush and wondering how that would work?
I have never used hide glue for turning since I think I heard it will come apart with heat and when turning it generates a lot of heat so that would be off of my list I think?
As of this time I am not teaching vets to turn. Also please do not send any items to me without prior notification.  Thank You Everyone.

It is always the right time, to do the right thing.
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#26
JM2CW. On using a plastic card, I use an old pair of Pinking shears from LOML to give the card a grooved edge. It spreads the glue without as much buildup under the card, similar to what one would use spreading quickset for laying tile. The thinner cards that you get in the mail as advertising are easier to cut than real CC's.
"73 is the best number because it's the 21st prime number, and it's mirror 37 is the 12th prime number, whose mirror 21 is the product of 7 times 3. Also in binary 73 is 1001001, which is a palindrome." - Nobel Laureate, Dr. Sheldon Cooper
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#27
Why am I being attacked?

I stated this for the record. If a person reads the label, they will find that water is the solvent for the glue. Water thins the glue. And wood that is dry wants to go back to its original state. Therefore the wood will absorb the water and thinned glue. Which makes finishing much more difficult. If it is a joint that will be seen I do what ever I can prevent the problem, but they do happen so I use every means to fix the problem other than by using a wet rag. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. 

I stated my reasons and this is how I do it and( I means I). I personally don't care how Tommy MacDonald does it. I don't even know or care who he is. If a person wants to use a wet rag to wipe up glue on their project then use a wet rag. 

Again I don't care how Tommy MacDonald does his glue ups. I stated Some people think that putting glue on only one gluing surface is good enough. Others will say both surfaces should be coated. And I am not going to get into that discussion, but all that is needed is a film of glue on the surface(s), not a layer 1/6 of an inch thick. 

Again why the attack? I never made a statement one way or the other about surfaces. Only that all that is needed is a film of glue,

I personally could care less how one puts his or her glue on or what is used to do it. The only thing I am guilty of saying is I do nor use a wet rag to wipe up wet  glue. I also stated that I that Acrylic brushes work better for me. I passed that information along  to whoever was interested. If the one reading this wants to continue using an acid brush go for it. But don't slam me because I prefer an Acrylic 

Bob Dylan said it best in a song Don't you understand it's not my problem.  

I also said gift card, not credit card. When it get used the teller usually will through it away when it is used up. Why not keep it, makes a good wet glue scraper. If you don't like the idea don't use it or start your own post. Again it is not my problem. Pinking shears  is a good idea. The next time I get a thinner card I will keep it and take it for a spin.

But don't you dare accuse me of saying I said this or that when in fact reading I never claimed any of what I am being accused of. Being able to read is not one of my problems.


I said I would post a picture of one. And for the person who was thinking a small artist brush I posted a large one, the come in many sizes.

[Image: DSC02944_zpsoyteli7b.jpg]


I've watched many a master ww'er also do this, and Tommy MacDonald too so how can it be wrong        Again it is not my problem and I don't know who Tommy MacDonald. But before Columbus everyone knew the world was flat.   And again I believe I stated that if it would show I would do everything to prevent .

Tom
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#28
I use white vinegar, never water to remove wet glue. I think using water and a rag forces wet glue into the wood fibers. I use white vinegar and an old toothbrush, scrub the wet joint, and wipe with a clean, dry cloth. Does it really work better than water? I don't know.....
Marc
Sun City, AZ
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#29
Fwiw, in areas where it won't mess up the finish, I have put paste wax around the glue area so glue runs chip off easier.
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#30
Tom, thanks for the information.  IMO, it is critical to pass on what you have learned.  It is also important (as a reader) to remember what works for one guy, may not work for another.  Some folks use the wet rag method, and don't have issues.  All personal preference.  I have done it without issue, but I have also done it only to discover after the first coat of finish the little splotch of discoloration, followed by self loathing for not being careful enough.  I digress.  Thanks for sharing your experience!
Luke

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