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12-15-2016, 03:29 PM
OK I admit that my bandsaw technique could use a lot of help.
Well probably more patience than help but I still struggle with which blade to use.
So if a guy was to attempt to make a herd of reindeer what blade would he use? More importantly would he use a different blade if he has scaled down the size to make smaller ones?
I read on one of the links provided in the recent reindeer thread that a guy should use a 3/16" 10TPI blade. I'm having issues finding that particular blade locally so what are some other options?
And yes I realize it is the week before Christmas....
Dave
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Dave
What length blade do you have? Also what is the curve size of the smallest cut out?
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80" long That I know. I'm at work so I have to guess on the rest.
The bigger deer are over an inch maybe an 1 1/4" ?
The middle size is probably right at an inch or just under it.
The small one is maybe 1/2"?
Dave
"Amateur Putzing in Shop."
Northern Wood on Norm 5/07
"Dave's shop is so small you have to go outside to turn around"
Big Dave on my old shop
So I built a new shop. (Picasa went away so did the link to the pictures)
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12-15-2016, 05:20 PM
(This post was last modified: 12-15-2016, 05:21 PM by MikeBob.)
a general rule is 3-4 teeth in the wood, I know that does not apply to resawing. Blade width is determined buy you smallest radius you want to cut.
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(12-15-2016, 03:29 PM)Just_Dave Wrote: 3/16" 10TPI blade. I'm having issues finding that particular blade locally so what are some other options?
That's what I use.
Some people don't want to mess with it but if you buy it in 100' or more lengths you'll save a lot on cost.
Silver soldering isn't really very hard and it's very convenient to make any length you might need.
The last 100' roll I bought was around $35 off of E-Bay.
I've done little deer on the scroll saw.
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3/16 x your blade length, and have 3 TPI to 10 TPI depending more on thickness. It's optimal; to have about 2 to 3 teeth in the wood at any given time. 3/16 is the race car for tight turns, 1/4" will do, 3/8 is just lazy for tight turns, think more gradual arcs.
I really like this blade guide for the tight turns. Might look too
costy if you don't o this too much, but if it's a frequent destination, these are sweet for really tight turns. Those tiny blades clamped between regular guides can break a lot of blades. These the blade rides on the face, and just turn zip zip........
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The Stabilizer from the link in the previous post is darn right impressive.
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If you drill between the legs and antlers with a proper size Forster bit you won't have such tight curves to cut.
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(12-15-2016, 11:24 PM)Dara Wrote: If you drill between the legs and antlers with a proper size Forster bit you won't have such tight curves to cut.
+1
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Those guys at the wood shows sure make it look easy. Wonder how many of those things they have cut out in their careers?? Never really paid attention to what size blade they were using though.
John T.
