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A couple weeks ago I decided to take another crack at that generator. After a suggestion from a member of the forum I started treating it as a small-engine problem and assume the control board wasn't needed. Today I jumpered power to the fuel solenoid but it still wouldn't start from the manual switch. strapping across the starter solenoid, it started and ran. After some more troubleshooting with and without the control board I figured out that when the control board is not plugged in and the switch is in 'manual' position, the side labeled on the schematic as 'automatic' has power.
I jumpered that to the starter and switch was able to start the generator. The wiring I used was somewhat redneckey and not permanent. I will get a switch that can switch the power to both the starter and the fuel solenoid at the same time. However, is shutting off the fuel solenoid an ok way to stop the engine, or should I figure out the wiring to kill spark? This isn't a lawn tool that would get used much. It's a generator that would get exercised every month or so.
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Thanks for the report, been waiting for one. I hate the help me threads, that dont report back on.
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Shutting off power to the fuel solenoid shouldn't be a problem. It may run a few seconds before actually shutting off
Steve
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WaterlooMark 02/9/2020
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OK, it starts. That's good. Does it produce acceptable power? 60 hz? and can you draw a good load?
Glad you are making progress.
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Speed control of the engine for output frequency and voltage regulation of the alternater have been my concerns with eliminating the control board. I haven't been able to determine if anything besides the board controls those functions.
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01-15-2017, 12:03 PM
(This post was last modified: 01-16-2017, 12:11 PM by Roly.)
I think I remember seeing a under and over frequency shutdown on the control board. The normal speed control and voltage control is internal in the generator. Speed control is actually on the motor driving the generator (governor) which controls the frequency. Also on the control board is low oil shut down and I think it had a high temperature shut down. Both of these could be wired in the system to stop the unit also. Roly
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(01-14-2017, 06:35 PM)Mr_Mike Wrote: OK, it starts. That's good. Does it produce acceptable power? 60 hz? and can you draw a good load?
Don't know yet. Going to pick up the parts to do the necessary rewiring this week and then test all that out.
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I would load it up with resistive loads first time out. Heavy as you can. Toasters, space heaters, electric water heater, anything that has resistive heaters and no electronics. Just to see what happens to frequency and voltage, with loads that don't care about frequency and voltage.
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IMO shutting of the fuel is the better way to stop. This way there is no fuel evaporating leaving varnish residue to gum thing up. It won't start quite as quick, but start more reliably.
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(01-16-2017, 02:05 PM)Foggy Wrote: IMO shutting of the fuel is the better way to stop. This way there is no fuel evaporating leaving varnish residue to gum thing up. It won't start quite as quick, but start more reliably.
Yes if you are going to store it. That's how I do mine. Just shut off the tank valve.
But to just shut it off, the OP was looking for a way to shut it down.
Steve
Missouri
The Revos apparently are designed to clamp railroad ties and pull together horrifically prepared joints
WaterlooMark 02/9/2020
