ITT we rank our planes!
#18
(01-20-2017, 12:11 PM)Pedder Wrote: #1 Ulmia short jointer, razeed by alex
Tools from a friend are allways superior. ANd this one is superior!

[Image: large?signature=345+1234294100+E51F35C8E...B42D463EB5]

Hi Pedder

I have long recommended the use of razee planes to achieve a low centre of effort. Is this the reason you like this plane? Can you describe the difference in ergonomics it made moving from the original design?

Regards from Perth

Derek
Articles on furniture building, shop made tools and tool reviews at www.inthewoodshop.com
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#19
To: Derek,

For sure your website influenced me when I made a razee-Jack plane back in 2009.   Thanks!

Chris

   
Chris
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#20
Hi Derek,

the lowe center of gravity and the handle ist closer to the blade as in th origial plane.

Cheers
Pedder
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#21
(01-20-2017, 10:47 AM)Rob Young Wrote: The Stanley shoulder plane (I'm assuming you have one of the re-release Sweetheart models) should be considered a kit and not a fully functional plane from the box.  If you have the time, there is a video from David Charlesworth (he may be along soon to discuss) that covers how to set up a shoulder plane.  Might be worth your time and a few $$$ to get.

The LN spokeshave is probably NOT the one to use when learning how to use a spokeshave.  Again, assuming you have the Boggs designed model and not the smaller version.  Designed to take only a very fine shaving, it can be frustrating to set up.  Prowl the Swap and Sell section or put out a WTB posting that you would like to get a nice Stanley 151 to experiment with.  Robust, readily available, easy to set.  I'm forgetting the model (153?) that has the adjustable mouth opening, but if you learn to make a 151 function well, you can make any other spokeshave of the bevel down design function well.

1. Yeah, I have one of the Stanley re-release shoulder planes; I forget which model. It's the 3/4" one, I wanna say the 92, but honestly not sure. I fiddled with it A LOT on a project I started last spring and then set aside waiting for my skills to catch up with my plan. :
Smile felt like I had it working as best it could, but I suppose I could be wrong.

2. I have the smaller ones, the small bronze spokeshaves (both flat and convex soles). Having tried to use them several times, and having only gotten them working correctly sort of randomly and only briefly, there is nothing I like about them except that they're pretty. But they are my only spokeshaves, so I will keep trying. I'm sure this is my fault, my inexperience, but it most certainly is not a beginner-friendly tool.
If you're gonna be one, be a Big Red One.
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#22
My Stanley 4 1/2 smoother is my main workhorse, followed closely by my wooden jack plane and my Sargent jointer.

Following just as close behind them are my two main spokeshaves, the LV low-angle and the regular LV.

I do practically everything with those five. I occasionally reach for the block planes for relieving sharp edges, but I mostly just let the kids play with them.
Steve S.
------------------------------------------------------
Tradition cannot be inherited, and if you want it you must obtain it by great labour.
- T. S. Eliot

Tutorials and Build-Alongs at The Literary Workshop
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#23
Catching up on this thread this morning motivated me to go out into the garage and try to get one of the spokeshaves working. I don't know how well that went, but in the process, I managed these two really cool shavings:

   
If you're gonna be one, be a Big Red One.
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#24
(01-21-2017, 01:09 PM)MattP Wrote: Catching up on this thread this morning motivated me to go out into the garage and try to get one of the spokeshaves working. I don't know how well that went, but in the process, I managed these two really cool shavings:

Progress!

Spokeshaves can be a bit fiddly to get working.  The short sole can really flummox people.  Keep at it and you WILL be rewarded.  They are a fantastic tool.
Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things. -- G. Carlin
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