Nail puller.
#21
(01-28-2017, 07:35 PM)daddo Wrote: I found this;  http://www.homedepot.com/p/Crescent-19-i.../203984930   but I hate spending the money for one job.

I've used one of those a fair amount. I've also pulled some deformed shank underlayment nails ... my gut feeling is that you're gonna be disappointed with the results.
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#22
I have one of those slide hammer nail outeners.  I used one to remove siding that was going to be reused, and it was really good for that.  It really depends on the nail and the surface it's on, flat surfaces are better. so it might work ok on this floor.  OTOH, you don't want to save the floor and can beat the nails in further, so destructive removal might be called for.  I get mine out now when I'm going to reuse the wood, otherwise it can be annoying to use.

Kinda surprised those things still cost $40, I think that's what I paid for mine 20 years ago.
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#23
I helped a friend remodel a rental that had full thickness 2" by 4" white oak studs/ceiling joists and had lath and plaster walls/ceiling.

Quickly found we could not pull the nails and also could not hammer them flush. Had to use a 4" angle grinder to flush cut every stinking nail!
Upset
Upset
Upset
Upset
Upset
Upset
Upset 

I have one of those slide hammer pullers---probably older than I am and still good. Never pulled even a half of one of those nails.
Uhoh  Flat bars----
No
No 

Crowbars----
No
No 

Cut----
Yes
Yes
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#24
cut the nails off with a recip. saw and a metal cutting blade.


Mel
ABC(Anything But Crapsman)club member
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#25
You didn't say the sq footage of the kitchen, but taking that out in crumbled pieces is a huge task.
Why not cut out the bad spots and replace those, then retile
Steve

Mo.



I miss the days of using my dinghy with a girlfriend too. Zack Butler-4/18/24


 
The Revos apparently are designed to clamp railroad ties and pull together horrifically prepared joints
WaterlooMark 02/9/2020








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#26
(01-28-2017, 11:56 PM)daddo Wrote:   I think something like that would work- would like it to be more sturdy if possible.  I'm going down tomorrow and take a look.  Thanks.

You would be surprised at how sturdy they are I have two shorter ones ( from Vaughn) and one is well over 35 yrs old and still working just fine. I have pulled nails in floors, walls trim, shingles and even used it extensively when I tore down a house 

they are made to be beat on and hold up fine

Joe
Let us not seek the Republican Answer , or the Democratic answer. Let us not seek to fix the blame for the past. Let us accept our own responsibility for the future  John F. Kennedy 



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#27
How about a drill-held hole saw (NOT a Forstner!) large enough to surround the nail and marked for a 7/8" depth of cut?
This would create "plugs" around the offending nails. You could then remove the particle board and deal with the nails as you see fit. Note: Buy several spare hole saws!
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#28
(01-28-2017, 11:56 PM)daddo Wrote:   I can hammer the nails down if the heads come off. I pull the ones where the heads stay on.
 The old linoleum from the 50's is still stuck to the wood- will be covering it.


 

in that case, how about renting a hammer drill with a chisel head? i had to remove parquet flooring nailed into old oak flooring once. sharpened up the chisel a bit and it made quick work of removal of the parquet.
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#29
I went with this one; http://www.homedepot.com/p/Estwing-10-in.../202033611

The pointed end penetrates and the nail head pops up fairly easily. I did have to modify the end some with the belt grinder- the end wasn't ground sharp enough. After the mod, it went fast!

Well worth it's weight.
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#30
That's the one I have and love it. Hope all goes well.
I no longer build museums but don't want to change my name. My new job is a lot less stressful. Life is much better.

Garry
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