What to do after final coat

[Cooler]

I avoid wax on acrylic and poly finishes.  It complicates refinishing later on.  Without the wax you can scuff the surface and apply another coat if it gets damaged.  With the wax I would probably take it down to bare wood before applying the finish.  

I don't think modern finished require paste wax.  But it does provide lubricity when rubbing down with steel wool and that might be the overriding factor.

[JokerRN]

This guy uses a super light pass with 400g, then 0000 steel wool, then 0000 steel wool with soapy water.

Any issue with doing that with a water based top coat?

https://youtu.be/O9LOtYFMb-A

[MikeBob]

I avoid wax on acrylic and poly finishes.  It complicates refinishing later on.  Without the wax you can scuff the surface and apply another coat if it gets damaged.  With the wax I would probably take it down to bare wood before applying the finish.  

I don't think modern finished require paste wax.  But it does provide lubricity when rubbing down with steel wool and that might be the overriding factor.

MS, Naphtha or Turpentine should remove the wax if need be if you needed to recoat the top.

[Rob Young]

This guy uses a super light pass with 400g, then 0000 steel wool, then 0000 steel wool with soapy water.

Any issue with doing that with a water based top coat?

https://youtu.be/O9LOtYFMb-A

Once fully cured, I'd expect it to be just fine.  Also that one isn't using so much soapy water it would be easier to just dunk it in the bathtub.

FYI, finger paints and watercolors are "water based", implying that the solvent is water.

Water borne or water-borne is the correct term in this case.  The finish is carried in a solvent that is dispersed in water, i.e. an emulsion.

(My own personal crusade and windmill tilting exercise is to eliminate "water based" as the descriptive term... 

 
)

[Stwood_]

(My own personal crusade and windmill tilting exercise is to eliminate "water based" as the descriptive term... 

 
)

Fine with me.

[JokerRN]

Thanks.

I will hence-forth use "water-borne" as the descriptive verbiage.

I am on a similar crusade against people saying things like "I could care less," and the misuse of "there, their, and they're."

[Rob Young]

Thanks.

I will hence-forth use "water-borne" as the descriptive verbiage.

I am on a similar crusade against people saying things like "I could care less," and the misuse of "there, their, and they're."

As we all go forth, making the world a better place one pet-peeve at a time. 

[MikeBob]

As we all go forth, making the world a better place one pet-peeve at a time. 

Just remember, 1 mans pet peeve may be an other mans joy.

[Cooler]

MS, Naphtha or Turpentine should remove the wax if need be if you needed to recoat the top.

It removes some and smears the rest around.  I would bet that you'd need to use 10 clean cloths plus naptha to get enough of it off for excellent adhesion.

Silicon is worse.  Chrysler had received stamping oils contaminated with silicon in the 1980s.  It caused the paint to peel.  They had made arrangements to have the cars repainted but they peeled also.  Once you get silicon on a finish it will stay for ever.  

Wax is not as bad, but since most modern finishes don't require wax I would leave it off.

[Rob Young]

Just remember, 1 mans pet peeve may be an other mans joy.