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(02-20-2017, 11:53 AM)Strokes77 Wrote: Don't misread this post as to application. T&T Danish might be "like" BLO... However, do not apply it as such. With BLO I can pour it on the surface, rub it around, wipe off excess... This is guaranteed way to ruin a project with T&T...
You literally apply a dab of this stuff across a whole panel. In doing so, a can of this stuff lasts forever.
Good points. Here are the instructions on how to apply T&T Danish Oil straight from their website:
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Apply a very thin coat across entire piece with a lint-free cloth at room temperature. DO NOT USE A BRUSH! A dry to wet color change in the wood should occur, but at no point should there be any puddling. A little bit of finish will go a long way!
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Allow Danish Oil to penetrate the wood for a minimum of 5 minutes.
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Rub in briskly with a lint-free cloth until the surface is completely dry. DO THIS BEFORE YOU LET THE PIECE CURE! Drying/curing issues will occur if this step is ignored! If little or no residue comes up on the clean cloth during this step, then you have used the correct amount of finish.
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Allow the piece to cure for a minimum of 8 hours.
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Burnish with a soft cloth or 0000 steel wool BEFORE EVERY COAT (even the first and last.) The more you rub the surface, the better the sheen will look.
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Additional coats will deepen the sheen and increase protection.
Still Learning,
Allan Hill
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Also, T & T recommends not thinning it, although I'm not sure why. They clearly add their own stuff, including beeswax and varnish.
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Well at least I know what my friend did wrong in one part anyway. He applied it with a brush but wiped it down several times with a cloth and even a dry cloth at the end.
As of this time I am not teaching vets to turn. Also please do not send any items to me without prior notification. Thank You Everyone.
It is always the right time, to do the right thing.
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I've been using the T&T products for years with very good results. I believe Christian Becksvoort was one of the early adopters of this product and in
one of his earlier mentions of the product in FWW he suggested to heat it to make it easier to apply. I spoke directly to the fellow who invented and manufactures it and he was emphatic that it should not be heated, as heating would likely lead to over application of the product. He couldn't stress strongly enough the concept of using a little finish as possible (this from the only guy who could benefit from greater usage of the product). The magazines slammed it: I believe one review (maybe FWW) applied it in the same manner as the other oil finishes being tested. Unfortunately, since he did not follow the mfg directions, his results were not stellar. I think the other review questioned the significance of the "polymerized" aspect of the product, suggesting that it was more marketing than science. My experience with it has been good, despite the poor reviews. The last time I saw Christian Becksvoort mention it, I think he indicated that he was blending it with some sort of varnish (for an oil varnish blend).
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You have to watch this T&T videos to see how little of the stuff you actually use.
T&T Video
I have only used the Varnish Oil and use Arm-R-Seal for anything that needs protection, but find T&T Varnish Oil to leave a great finish with very little effort IF you follow the directions. First time I used it, I used way too much. It took months for the stuff to dry.
In the video, the guy says something like if you've applied any at all, it's enough.
Other benefits are that it's supposedly safe enough to use without gloves and it doesn't go bad. Which is good because you use so little. I just used some that had been sitting around for at least 2 or 3 years.
Steve
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That raises another question. I'd like to order a can of the stuff, but I wonder how long it will last once I've opened it.
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(02-21-2017, 11:54 AM)overland Wrote: That raises another question. I'd like to order a can of the stuff, but I wonder how long it will last once I've opened it.
I asked the company, and they confirmed, there is no expiration date.
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I just used it on a birch bowl. It works great, I had absolutely no issues with it. I did not follow their directions (what are those anyway?), I slathered it on heavy, probably at least 7 times over a period of a week. All of it was absorbed by the birch. It does take longer to dry than say a Watco, but I'm fine with that. I have no fondness for chemicals and metals in my finishes. I'll probably let it dry a few more days and put several coats of shellac on it, then wax and buff.
True power makes no noise - Albert Schweitzer. It's obvious he was referring to hand tools
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Over here the only easy source for it is gun shops where it is sold as gun stock oil which mkaes getting it les easy than most products - our strict gun laws mean there isn't a gun shop on every corner or even in every town. I have used it in accordance with the product instructions, to finish wind instruments and found it to be excellent. I'm equally sure it would be great for gun stocks.
Jim
