Using the Veritas grinding jig & tool rest
#15
I own this jig and the tool rest. I might be the only person that outright dislikes it. Apart from the problem mentioned with advancing the blade, I also have the issue when grinding shorter chisels, e.g. a 3/4'' chisel which doesn't reach from the squaring pin to the grinding wheel so I have to advance the chisel beyond the bed and squaring it with a try square, a painful process since I have to do this while the jig is off of the tool rest, which means that I never put the chisel at the right length to meet the wheel correctly. Is there something I am missing? I would love to find out that I have just been doing something incorrectly.

Another issue with the set up is that it all depends on having the jig slot square to the wheel. How exactly do you ensure this? With my grinder (which I am suspecting is a piece of crap anyhow), there is no good way to ensure that the tool rest base is parallel to the grinder, which is assumed to hold the wheel such that it would then be square to the jig. I thought I had done a decent job at this, but by inspecting my work, I is apparent that I had not.

Frankly, for the most part I do a better job just freehanding with the tool rest.
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#16
(03-07-2017, 03:48 PM)Admiral Wrote: I handhold too.  I once made a wooden jig to glide in the rest, as the metal one did bugger up, but I found it useful only to maintain squareness, and once I developed more skill handheld was the way to go.
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I made a tool holder for a round, single point diamond tool dresser..It fits in the slot and can glide back and forth dressing the stone parallel to the slot...I dress all tools freehand but a holder could be made that would allow the blade to be adjusted incrementally into the wheel. insuring the slot, the tool holder and the tool are square with the grinding wheel.
One of the problems using aluminum for the tool holder and the rest is..steel grinding dust imbeds itself into the aluminum creating friction and making the holder hard to slide smoothly and evenly...A tropical hardwood works better for a tool holder than the aluminum IMO because there is less friction...and they are easy to make.
Often Tested.    Always Faithful.      Brothers Forever

Jack Edgar, Sgt. U.S. Marines, Korea, America's Forgotten War
Get off my lawn !
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#17
I have no issues with the rest or the holder. I believe the excess play is deliberate-grind away till close, put a tad pressure forward in the groove to complete. This is a routine I've been using for 4 or 5 years without fail. The rest groove does load pretty easily, but I find wiping it out with a paper towel solves that problem quite handily. Also, I tried a variety of lubes in the groove, and that only seemed to make it worse. Jack's idea of making a different tool holder would also help and should be simple to make.
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#18
(05-26-2017, 08:40 AM)Tony Z Wrote: I have no issues with the rest or the holder.  I believe the excess play is deliberate-grind away till close, put a tad pressure forward in the groove to complete.  This is a routine I've been using for 4 or 5 years without fail.  The rest groove does load pretty easily, but I find wiping it out with a paper towel solves that problem quite handily.  Also, I tried a variety of lubes in the groove, and that only seemed to make it worse.  Jack's idea of making a different tool holder would also help and should be simple to make.
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Tony, if I were going to make one, I think I would make the incremental tool holder out of a very hard wood like Lignum Vitae which has natural "lubricity".. it machines fairly easily and is dense enough to hold threads well for the adjustment mechanism...I might even consider making a new "platform" out of steel to go with it..And I am wondering now if Corian might work pretty well for a holder...lots of ideas out there and one of them might just work...
Big Grin
Often Tested.    Always Faithful.      Brothers Forever

Jack Edgar, Sgt. U.S. Marines, Korea, America's Forgotten War
Get off my lawn !
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