How do you avoid blotch when finishing cherry?
#7
I have a cherry with ebony trim grandfather clock to finish. My daughter wants a natural finish with no stain. I can't spray since it is going to be finished in my basement. In the past I have been disappointed when cherry projects ended up blotching. I would like to know how you reduce blotching and what wipe or brush on finish you would use. Thanks.
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#8
Wipe on clear film finishes won't blotch.  That includes blonde or lighter shellac and wipe on varnishes.  Oil finishes like Danish oiil can blotch on wood prone to do so, but it often dissipates in a few days.  If you want to use something like that, I would test it on some scrap that looks blotch prone to see how it looks. 

John
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#9
Listen to John first! I have had success using shellac under BLO. Put a spit coat of <= 1# cut on then sand that back. The end grain will absorb more shellac and therefore will not blotch. I'd strongly suggest sticking with shellac as your finish. Show your daughter samples of blonde and ruby or garnet shellac. She will love one or the other. Adjust sheen with #0000 steel wool and wax.
Thanks,  Curt
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"Life can only be understood backwards; but it must be lived forwards."
      -- Soren Kierkegaard
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#10
Jim, you also could use rattle can shellac, even indoors.  I know it stinks for a little while, but if you wear a respirator you'll be fine.  The reason I mention rattle can shellac is because it works great and is far easier than wiping on shellac if you have a lot of recessed details, parts intersecting, moldings, etc. 

John
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#11
Thanks for the excellent replies. What about Waterlox? I did some window frames years ago and they still look like they were done yesterday.
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#12
(03-13-2017, 08:15 AM)JSpill Wrote: Thanks for the excellent replies. What about Waterlox? I did some window frames years ago and they still look like they were done yesterday.

Sure, any varnish will work and won't blotch. 

John
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