Tote repairs
#6
I found a few bench planes with broken totes in the boneyard. So I guess it is time for a few repairs. Here is the broken horn.


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First step was to cut off the break and make an even base.


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Then I glued it to a stick of walnut. I am allergic to rosewood.


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Here is the tote with a broken toe.


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Glue is dry on #1.


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Trimmed.


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Back to the toe. Best and safest way to remove extra stock is to use a coping saw.


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Reworked the hole.


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Done.


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Tote horn sanded.


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Drilling out the tote rod hole.


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Finishing it up.


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Totes sanded and cleaned with turpentine.


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Ready for some rattle can poly.

Totes are not that hard to repair. In the case of a missing horn, the repair really helps. That part of the tote holds the web between your thumb and forefinger and keeps you hand in place.

We are woodworkers. Tote repairs are in our wheelhouse. Fix yer planes.
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#7
Fine work!

I was getting to the end of my rosewood stash and ended up getting an odd slab of dark, heavy Milo wood from a Hawaii seller.  I used it on an old plane to fix a broken tote and resell.  Put it for sale, 50 States, and someone from Hawaii bought the plane!

Maybe that's boomerang wood...

Chris
Chris
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#8
(03-17-2017, 03:50 PM)C. in Indy Wrote: Fine work!

I was getting to the end of my rosewood stash and ended up getting an odd slab of dark, heavy Milo wood from a Hawaii seller.  I used it on an old plane to fix a broken tote and resell.  Put it for sale, 50 States, and someone from Hawaii bought the plane!

Maybe that's boomerang wood...

Chris

It wanted to go home REALLY bad.
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#9
What type of glue did you use, yellow or cyna?
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#10
(03-17-2017, 05:05 PM)Dayle1960 Wrote: What type of glue did you use, yellow or cyna?

I use Titebond III and have had good results. The rosewood is dense so I let the glue sit on it for 5-10 minutes just to soak in. Sometimes I refresh the glue if it gets absorbed. Once both pieces are soaked and saturated I clamp it up. I think one of the secrets of a good bond is good mating surfaces. Sometimes old totes have old wounds and the pieces do not fit together well. Those have to be cut off or carved to fit.

The true test of a good bond is whether or not it holds up to final shaping and sanding. If it holds up to a rigorous after-treatment then I think it is good to go. Some use epoxy. I have not tried that but I'll bet it works well. I like the TIII because it is fresh (I use it all the time) and am very familiar with it.
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