Removing jointer tables?
#10
Yorkcraft YC-8J (DJ-20 clone). I've done this before. Getting older and dumber, I think. Loosen the gib screws, loosen the locking levers. Then what? Shouldn't I be able to slide them off?
Best,
Aram, always learning

"Perfection is achieved, not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to take away.” Antoine de Saint-Exupery


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#11
Can't answer your question, but I don't think the Yorkcraft was a DJ-20 clone.  The DJ-20 is a parallelogram design, and the YC-8J is a dovetail way type.  Would make a difference in the way the tables are removed.
Bob
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#12
(03-27-2017, 11:03 PM)BobW Wrote: Can't answer your question, but I don't think the Yorkcraft was a DJ-20 clone.  The DJ-20 is a parallelogram design, and the YC-8J is a dovetail way type.  Would make a difference in the way the tables are removed.

Thanks, maybe I am wrong about the Delta. Anyway, still need to get my tables off. Jeesh, I'm pretty sure I just did it last time without thinking too hard.
Best,
Aram, always learning

"Perfection is achieved, not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to take away.” Antoine de Saint-Exupery


Web: My woodworking photo site
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#13
Aram,  I did it years ago on an old  Powermatic 6 inch jointer with dovetailed ways.  Can't remember how it was done, but IIRC correctly, I took off everything that was bolted on other than the beds, ( fence, adjustment wheels, etc so take lots of pictures, and keep all the parts in a safe place ) then loosened the gibs ,  and again not positive, but I think the tables lifted up and off the base.  I did some google searches this morning and some suggest the cutter head has to be removed, but I don't recall that - you need to look at your casting to see if the tables can be lifted off, or have to slide down to come off.  Be careful, they will be heavy.
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#14
I am posting this from the last tome I had to actually pull a table and things are not all that clear so if I am off someone should be able to correct me 

if the ways are dovetailed then once the fence and other accessories are out of the way  you release all the gib screws and lift the tables off. There is probably four screws  on each side of each table.. the gib bars may or may not slide out you need them out however as I recall 

parallelogram set tables have two locking plates underneath on two shafts  that you can see on the eccentric shafts. It is a foggy recall but I think you have to turn the unit over to remove the lock plates as in it is easier to remove the base from the tables 


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Let us not seek the Republican Answer , or the Democratic answer. Let us not seek to fix the blame for the past. Let us accept our own responsibility for the future  John F. Kennedy 



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#15
(03-28-2017, 08:56 AM)JGrout Wrote: I am posting this from the last tome I had to actually pull a table and things are not all that clear so if I am off someone should be able to correct me 

if the ways are dovetailed then once the fence and other accessories are out of the way  you release all the gib screws and lift the tables off. There is probably four screws  on each side of each table.. the gib bars may or may not slide out you need them out however as I recall 

Thanks, Joe, That's what I remember doing and what I tried the other day. Will try again.
Best,
Aram, always learning

"Perfection is achieved, not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to take away.” Antoine de Saint-Exupery


Web: My woodworking photo site
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#16
(03-28-2017, 09:29 AM)Aram Wrote: Thanks, Joe, That's what I remember doing and what I tried the other day. Will try again.

Oh and it would be good if you removed the elevation levers 
Smirk from the tables 

Joe
Let us not seek the Republican Answer , or the Democratic answer. Let us not seek to fix the blame for the past. Let us accept our own responsibility for the future  John F. Kennedy 



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#17
Every dovetailed way jointer I have ever worked on always has some type of connection point between the base and the tables so the tables can be lowered and raised - either a tapped block that the elevation screw threads into or a pivot rod in case of a lever operated elevation mechanism.  That connection point will have to be disconnected from the base in order to completely remove the tables. You may have to invert the entire jointer to see what is going on.  That's the way I have always done it, but YMMV.

Greg
The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten.
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#18
Got them off! Had to remove the cutterhead and a couple of parts. Not very difficult, just takes a little patience to figure out.
Best,
Aram, always learning

"Perfection is achieved, not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to take away.” Antoine de Saint-Exupery


Web: My woodworking photo site
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