Stanley #80 has changed my life
#11
I've had this tool sitting around for a couple of years at least neglecting it because the blade was in tough shape with some rust pits. I finally said hell with it and took the time to rehab the blade. It took me a long time on some 24 grit sandpaper. Now that I've given it a try I'm kicking myself for not getting it working a long time ago. I've recently been working with some Ash that has quite a few grain direction changes and my planes just haven't been getting the job done without a bit of tearout. I went after it with the #80 and am blown away how well it works. I went through my scrap pile pulling out the gnarliest peices I could find and it made quick work of everthing. Even a piece of buckthorn that has been impossible to work. I've heard some people only use it for glue cleanup and stuff like that but I think it's going to put my ROS our of a job.
How do you know you're learning anything if you don't screw up once in awhile?

My blog: http://birdsandboards.blogspot.com/
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#12
Do tell!
I've never tried any scrapers but hand-held blades.   Any comments on how (well) it works?
Chris
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#13
Try a scraper plane, even better.
Credo Elvem ipsum etiam vivere
Non impediti ratione cogitationis
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#14
You might not know that Lee Valley has replacement blades for the 80.
Blackhat

Bad experiences come from poor decisions. So do good stories. 


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#15
(05-14-2017, 03:45 PM)Admiral Wrote: Try a scraper plane, even better.

The #80 is dang near ubiquitous and makes a good starting point.  Once set up, they do a fantastic job.

Finding a #12 or #112 Stanley or the Sargent or other equivalent will really open up possibilities.  Modern equivalents from LN and LV are nice too.
Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things. -- G. Carlin
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#16
I recently found an unused Stanley 80 with original Sweetheart blade.

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Wood is good. 
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#17
Ron Hock also has blades for scraper planes -

http://www.hocktools.com/products/sb.html
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#18
I have a couple of 80s and a L-N 112 equivalent. The 80 is much easier to set up and use and is good for most of my finish scraping needs. It works great. The 112, however, is a monster once you get it set up and going. Great for large panels with squirrelly grain. The learning curve is a little long for the 112 though.

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#19
I've been using a card scraper for a few years and have always been happy with the results but if it's big project it's a real pain in the thumbs. Its also really tricky to use on the narrow side of a board. The 80 is comparativly effortless to use and with the thicker steel, it seems to hold its burr a lot longer. It's not a total replacment for the card scraper but close. I'd love to try out a scraper plane. I've never came across an old stanley or Sargent but I've seen the modern iterations. If I were to drop the cash on a LV or LN variety a LA jack would come first.
How do you know you're learning anything if you don't screw up once in awhile?

My blog: http://birdsandboards.blogspot.com/
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#20
I use card scrapers, have several of varying thickness and hardness, with good results. I have a #80, plus scraper planes, but have never taken the time (or perceived the need) to learn hhow to use them.

My question is, what are the advantages to a thicker blade? It would seem to me many of the advantages of a card scraper would be lost (same with the #80, with the original blade, it can be "flexed"). Any guidance what I'm missing?
Waiting to grow up beyond being just a member
www.metaltech-pm.com
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