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Hi,
I just restored a 37-220 Delta Rockwell 6" jointer. I have not used a jointer in the past.
My question is how to make sure the wood piece stays referenced to the fence as well as going crossed the knives.
First I joint one side flat. Then I put that face against the fence and joint an adjacent side.
The first step can be done with downward pressure only. The second step involves putting pressure on the piece at a 45 degree angle aimed at the fence/table intersection. How is that done? I get how this would work with a board but my question is about jointing a square piece ( 1 to 2" square). I have some push blocks but I don't think they would work well on the second step with a small pice of wood.
How do you do this on your jointer or am I worried about something that I don't need to be worried about?
Thanks,
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Mark
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what i do when edge jointing a board against the fence is this.
i use my left hand as a "feather board" on the out feed table to keep the board tight against the fence and slide the board with my right hand, keeping my left hand stantionary. on longer boards i use push blocks. one to keep the board against the fence and one on the top corner to slide the board....i just readjust the blocks and keep moving the board through the cutter.
there are many good videos of this on youtube, i think the wood whisperer has one decicated to jointer use you could check out.
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You mean a piece of 1 - 2" square stock at least maybe 10" long, right? I hope you don't mean a 1 - 2" cube; don't ever try running something like that on a jointer. So assuming you mean a long piece of square stock, or any piece of stock for that matter, just hold the stock tight against the fence and run it across the knives. The same principles as face jointing apply here. Start out with pressure on the infeed table, and transfer pressure to the outfeed table when enough length has been run onto it to provide stability. The only difference is you are doing that while pressing the stock against the fence.
John
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something that is missed a lot is that once you have a few inches of the stock edge over the knives the fresh surface will assist your efforts to keep the stock at a 90 or perpendicular to the face
On stock as wide and high ( and as above at least 10 long) I have done this so often that once I have that reference on the outfeed table I stop worrying about holding the stock in two directions I can even wander away from the fence and end up with the desired result. IOW I just feed it forward using the outfeed table as the reference surface
Let us not seek the Republican Answer , or the Democratic answer. Let us not seek to fix the blame for the past. Let us accept our own responsibility for the future John F. Kennedy
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Sight the board first. Take off the high spots second, by placing them on the infeed table, even if the board doesn't touch the knives ahead of your cut. Plane full length third. Do the same on the edge, after you've removed the high spots. I think it's a LOT easier to joint the wane edge, which tends to two high ends, than to joint the heart side, with a center bow.
Better to follow the leader than the pack. Less to step in.
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Thanks,
I was thinking more about a 2" square piece of stock that would be used for a leg (18" long).
I get the basic methods of running the jointer but I'm not sure about the second step (related to referencing the fence).
I doubt a magnetic feather board would work attached to the out feed table would work do to the fact that that surface may not be coplanar with the fence.
Mark
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A 1' or 2" square piece feels small for me to be running over a jointer. I get better, safer, results using a table saw. I just put the concave edge against the fence, rip wide, then rip to width. A saw will cut square, quickly.
A piece of wood that is small and bent in two directions will probably end up not working in whatever you are making. Unless you're James Krenov.
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05-24-2017, 04:29 PM
(This post was last modified: 05-24-2017, 04:31 PM by MichaelMouse.)
(05-24-2017, 02:20 PM)sawnuts Wrote: Thanks,
I was thinking more about a 2" square piece of stock that would be used for a leg (18" long).
I get the basic methods of running the jointer but I'm not sure about the second step (related to referencing the fence).
I doubt a magnetic feather board would work attached to the out feed table would work do to the fact that that surface may not be coplanar with the fence.
Mark
Make yourself some right angle hold downs. Then when you press down and right against the fence, you'll keep your fingers clear. Remember, however, glue only. Don't use metal to make 'em, or I will guarantee you will find it with your blades someday.
NB: Keep the hold down/right types for plowing grooves on the tablesaw. Down to the table and right to the fence works there too. Wooden fingers work fine.
Better to follow the leader than the pack. Less to step in.
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You do not say you have a Planer, the following link will rely heavily on a planer to "thickness" the stock. It relies on one flat face from the Jointer, at this point edges aren't important. If you do not have a planer then hand planes are the least expensive way to thickness, and they require some skill in using and, sharpening them. Once both faces are flat, and the thickness is consistent the length, and width of the stock, then you can edge on the jointer. You will want to keep a flat face against the fence with consistent pressure down on the board. If you worry about your hands near the cutterhead I have found the following type of magnetic jig helpful in keeping the board tight to the fence, or to hold pressure down on top of the board. Both do NOT move, so they won't get into the blade, and both will hold the stock near the cutterhead, and allow you to push through with your hands, or closer in with a push stick. IOW they hold the board just so, and keep you well away. I've seen them in use, and know them to work. I am either stupid, or comfortable enough with Jointer operation that I can hold the board tight, and hand push until I need to switch to a push stick. Do what you are comfy with, is my suggestion.
Magnetic jigs they are also portable, and can help with most machines.
Milling stock 4 square
Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya 
GW
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Steve,
Thanks for your response. I like your idea about doing two parallel faces first (planer) and then go back to the jointer for at the second edge.
I have collected and used hand tools for around 15 years and have squared up a lot of items with those with the help on Winding sticks.
I also have a table saw and bandsaw at my disposal. I think every project may be a little different based on the sock I am using and what the project requires.
Mark
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