fuming furniture
#9
I have a project I'm just finishing up. It is a cabinet about 4'L x3' H x 16"D built of quartersawn white oak in the Craftsman style. I'd like to finish it in the traditional manner, with ammonia fuming. I've never used this technique before so all advice is appreciated (you can skip 'be careful' if you want, I know this stuff can be dangerous and I have the PPE's) One of my basic questions is how much ammonia will this take? I have a chemist friend who has agreed to supply me with what I need, but I'm not sure what to ask for. I really don't want leftovers. I will build my tent to pretty close quarters, and I understand we're looking for a lot of liquid surface to air contact. Would a pint in a pie pan do? I have much to learn about be the process, and of course I'm hopeful for a beautiful finish, but this is as much for experimentation as anything. I built the piece on spec and have nothing to match and no one to please but myself. If anyone can recommend good reference material I would also appreciate that. Thank you.
Reply
#10
As someone who has NEVER done this (but always wanted to) the demonstrations I've seen always show the length of time (and other stuff, like temps) is the most important. I suspect a pint would be enough, but I'd still get more. If I recall, the suggestion was to use something in the 25-28% concentration. FWW has a video by Kelly Dunton that I think is very good. I'd also wait to hear from others, and i wish you the best in this adventure. I'd like to see the results!
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
Reply
#11
(05-31-2017, 08:52 AM)ed kerns Wrote: I have a project I'm just finishing up. It is a cabinet about 4'L x3' H x 16"D built of quartersawn white oak in the Craftsman style. I'd like to finish it in the traditional manner, with ammonia fuming. I've never used this technique before so all advice is appreciated (you can skip 'be careful' if you want, I know this stuff can be dangerous and I have the PPE's) One of my basic questions is how much ammonia will this take? I have a chemist friend who has agreed to supply me with what I need, but I'm not sure what to ask for. I really don't want leftovers. I will build my tent to pretty close quarters, and I understand we're looking for a lot of liquid surface to air contact. Would a pint in a pie pan do? I have much to learn about be the process, and of course I'm hopeful for a beautiful finish, but this is as much for experimentation as anything. I built the piece on spec and have nothing to match and no one to please but myself. If anyone can recommend good reference material I would also appreciate that. Thank you.

You shouldn't need much, a pint to a quart will be more than sufficient.

Time in the tent will vary based on wood (tannin content) and color you desire.  Test, including putting a topcoat over the samples as it shifts the color away from the greens.

You can speed up and "darken" by painting on tannic acid from a saturated solution.  

I've only done small stuff because I find making the tents a pain in the butt.  Mostly I've been using the dye & glaze formulas published on Homestead Finishing's web site (Jeff Jewitt).  Works great and you have a ton of control over the final color this way.  But because the dye doesn't penetrate the way fuming does, the color can be damaged if things get nicked, etc.
Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things. -- G. Carlin
Reply
#12
Good luck.  My experiments several years ago convinced me in short order that dyes are far easier and safer to use, and give predictable and repeatable results.  Fuming missed the mark on every point.  

John
Reply
#13
Can you expound on that John? As I stated, I'm interested in this primarily as an experiment. On the other hand, I don't want to botch a perfectly good cabinet.
Reply
#14
I used 28% ammonia in my tests, which I think is what the commercial guys used back in the day.  I don't know if you have ever used ammonia this strong before, but it can and will kill you if you spill it an enclosed space and you aren't wearing the correct respirator.  If your eyes aren't protected behind air tight googles they will shut and you won't be able to see.  This stuff is not like many chemicals which kill you slowly; this stuff kills you right now. 

But the real problem I had with it is poor and inconsistent color on several different samples of white oak.  Most all my samples had a greenish cast to them and were ugly or at best bland after I finished them with Arm-R-Seal, shellac, or spray lacquer.  I never got anything that encouraged me enough to pursue it past those initial experiments.  I was expecting to be wowed by the look of "fumed white oak" compared to using Transtint dye.  I wasn't. 

I hope you have better look.  Just be careful.  

John
Reply
#15
Sorry if this isn't exactly what you're looking for, but twice in this thread I read something that ought to be addressed.
It so happens that during the Arts and Crafts period, the greenish cast that one would often find on oak was the desired effect. I've read contemporary accounts detailing how to achieve the desired green effect.
Now, back to your thread...
Reply
#16
I appreciate all the input. I have to admit that a greenish cast isn't exactly the look I was going for. I will proceed with just a sample board in a small tent and see how it goes.
Reply


Forum Jump:


Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)

Product Recommendations

Here are some supplies and tools we find essential in our everyday work around the shop. We may receive a commission from sales referred by our links; however, we have carefully selected these products for their usefulness and quality.