Router speed

[DogwoodTales]

If new to doing a climb cut I would recommend practicing on scrap with a full size router which you are holding with both hands until you get past the learning curve and learn the nature of it, then attempt it using the palm router.

[Steve N]

Add on to, firmly clamp the piece down. The reason you don't go backward on a router table is that low flying objects occur that are totally out of your control. Same exact direction on a climb cut, bass ackwards. If you are possessed to do a climb cut then only REALLY shallow passes till you start to get a feel for what is about to happen, and then still NEVER go deep.

I will point out this discussion has turned to climb cutting, when all that is needed to do in this situation is take shallower cuts, going the correct direction, and do the end grain passes first. Doing that you will cease to get blow out. Or really going out there put a backer board the same thickness behind wherever you plan to go off the edge, and make the cut just a touch longer. When you remove the backer board, presto chango, no blow out... Put my shocked face here.

[cputnam]

The African mahogany I have reverses grain about every 1/8" or so. I'm going to suggest practicing on your busted piece and use climb cuts of 1/16" or less. Get a good wide router base so you have some stability and use a brand new SHARP bit.

[johndi]

I recut the radius on the top and used my big router to recut the profile and all went well.
I do agree that it seems like the grain reverses in these boards frequently.
While using a spokeshave to shape the legs, I had to change direction often because of tearout.
Thanks again for all of the advice.

[Steve N]

Glad you were able to get it done.