Shooting board - fixed or adjustable fence
#18
(09-14-2017, 10:18 PM)nuk Wrote: So... getting ready to embark on making a first 'nice' shooting board or two; I want/need to be able to do both 90 and 45 degrees.

I guess my first question, for the people with fixed fence shooting boards... is how do you get them dead-nuts on in the first place without having to later shim the stock somehow, every time you use it?  Seems like that would be a PITA, with the shim never being in quite the right spot for different lengths of stock, etc.?

Second question, for those with adjustable fence shooting boards... how do you make absolutely sure it doesn't move when you don't want it to, but still able to adjust when needed?

Dead nuts today doesn't necessarily mean dead nuts tomorrow. Especially with wood construction. Possibly cast iron would be ok. That's why I like Derek's jig. I doubt anyone who uses one much would go for the fixed.
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#19
(09-15-2017, 10:10 PM)nuk Wrote: How did you verify it was *truly* 45?   Make a picture frame?  If it's not adjustable, do you pitch it in the burn pile and start over?

After I made it I used it to trim some moldings for an end table. The mitered corners came out looking nice with no gaps so I declared the fixture a victory. I have no idea if that mitre came out dead on at 45 or not. After I built it I simply checked it against what I was building and it fit. Heck, I might build crooked case work but as long as the mitres match, I'm golden. 

If I had wrecked it I would have chopped it up for bbq wood and cut another one. 

carl
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#20
I built my shooting board with a fixed fence and an a replaceable sub fence. It also has an auxiliary 45 degree attachment for miters. Hard as I tried, I was unable to get my fixed fence perfectly square. It's off a couple of thousandths, but it''s not a problem. A single sheet of paper between the replaceable fence and the fixed one at the low end solves the problem. No need to shim between the workpiece and the fence.

Like Derek, I'm not crazy about building shop furniture; but if I build something, I try to make it as nice as I can. It's much more pleasant working with an attractive, accurate jig than working with something I slapped together in a hurry. Here are are some photos of my shooting board.

[Image: Shooting_Boardand_Brese_Shooting_Pla-1.jpg]

[Image: Shooting_Boardand_Brese_Shooting_Pla-2.jpg]

[Image: Shooting_Boardand_Brese_Shooting_Pla-6.jpg]
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#21
DC & HK--nice job.
Wood is good. 
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#22
Quote:Hard as I tried, I was unable to get my fixed fence perfectly square. It's off a couple of thousandths, but it''s not a problem. A single sheet of paper between the replaceable fence and the fixed one at the low end solves the problem. No need to shim between the workpiece and the fence.

Thanks, that's actually very helpful!
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#23
(09-16-2017, 11:08 AM)nuk Wrote: Thanks, that's actually very helpful!

Nuk,

You're welcome. I forgot to respond to your question about getting the 45 Degree miter attachment dead on 45 Degrees. A draftsman's triangle was the answer for me. They are dead on square and inexpensive. My miter attachment is based on a perfectly square BB plywood triangle. I first marked out the triangle on the BB ply using a plastic 45 degree draftsman's triangle. I cut close to the lines and then stuck the triangle to the BB ply with double stick tape. Then I used a pattern bit in my router and trimmed the ply to the exact dimensions of the draftsman's square. The plastic triangle is pretty thin, so keeping the router bit bearing on the plastic was a little bit of a challenge. If I recall correctly (it has been several years since I made this shooting board), I shimmed the draftsman's triangle up with a piece of 1/8" ply so the bearing centered on the plastic. Then is was just a matter of running the router around the triangle to produce a plywood clone. I added maple fences drilled for T nuts and bolted on some replaceable fences. I clamped the structure tightly to the fixed fence and drilled a hole for a wide flanged shoulder bolt that secures it to the shooting board and it was done. It's dead on accurate. here's another photo of the miter attachment that might be helpful:

[Image: DSC_0009.jpg]
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#24
Hank, that is a very nice design and great workmanship!

Below is a another system, one that incorporates a feature I have built into all my shooting boards. The design is an earlier one (I think that I built this one for someone on this forum).

It's another ramped board in Jarrah ...

[Image: ShootingforPerfection_html_m3f021a61.jpg]

This has an adjustable fence in the horizontal plain , but is also has a built in user-replaceable face ...

[Image: ShootingforPerfection_html_554618a7.jpg]

At the centre is a hole through which attachments are clamped, such as the mitre fence ...

[Image: Shootingfor_Perfection_html_m3a76dc3b.jpg]

[Image: Shootingfor_Perfection_html_11842143.jpg]

The important features is that these attachments are adjusted by the fine adjustment on the main fence. This allows one to dial in any accessory.

Regards from Perth

Derek
Articles on furniture building, shop made tools and tool reviews at www.inthewoodshop.com
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