Chain Link damage repair
#11
Hurricane Irma knocked down about 80' of our 6' chainlink fence.
2 of the line posts are down to the ground. 
The fence has 4 x 8 plastic lattice panels on it, and a lot of vines on it, which is what caused the windage, and damage.
We would like to save the vines, and that means not removing the lattice to repair.
I'm thinking of heating up the bent part of the posts (at ground level) and bending the posts back vertical.
With the top rail and lattice in place, I figure I would have alternate heating/bending each post, untill all are vertical.

Now the question.  How to reinforce the posts, after they are vertical?
I'm not looking for this to last more than 2-3 years. 
The backside of the fence faces a swale, and any extra posts put on that side will not show. Any additional posts on the front side will not stick out much, because of the vines, and it's not a manicured yard.

One thought is a 1' piece of galvanized angle iron, bolted above and below the bent/unbent area.
Also might waterjet in a few posts along the back side. Sandy soil in SW FL and posts jet in easy. I have a bunch of top rail that would work.

Any thoughts on the repair? Not looking to remove the lattice or fabric to make the repair. 

Thanks for any ideas
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#12
Bend posts back up, then take maybe a 3' long piece of 1-1/2 angle iron and hand drive it in about 2' deep, leaving a foot to attach to the post?
Steve

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#13
(09-20-2017, 10:45 AM)pirate2 Wrote: Hurricane Irma knocked down about 80' of our 6' chainlink fence.
2 of the line posts are down to the ground. 
The fence has 4 x 8 plastic lattice panels on it, and a lot of vines on it, which is what caused the windage, and damage.
We would like to save the vines, and that means not removing the lattice to repair.
I'm thinking of heating up the bent part of the posts (at ground level) and bending the posts back vertical.
With the top rail and lattice in place, I figure I would have alternate heating/bending each post, untill all are vertical.

Now the question.  How to reinforce the posts, after they are vertical?
I'm not looking for this to last more than 2-3 years. 
The backside of the fence faces a swale, and any extra posts put on that side will not show. Any additional posts on the front side will not stick out much, because of the vines, and it's not a manicured yard.

One thought is a 1' piece of galvanized angle iron, bolted above and below the bent/unbent area.
Also might waterjet in a few posts along the back side. Sandy soil in SW FL and posts jet in easy. I have a bunch of top rail that would work.

Any thoughts on the repair? Not looking to remove the lattice or fabric to make the repair. 

Thanks for any ideas

Could you drop a piece 1" steel pipe, or a solid bar (concrete form pin or rebar) from the top and then pour in some grout (Por-Rock/hydraulic cement) to form an interior splice?
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#14
Cut the old posts and remove.  Place a new post about 1 foot from the old.  

Home Depot has them at $19.00 to $17.00 each (8 foot long). I don't think it pays to rehabilitate the old ones.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/YARDGARD-2-19.../100322502
No animals were injured or killed in the production of this post.
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#15
(09-20-2017, 02:56 PM)Cooler Wrote: Cut the old posts and remove.  Place a new post about 1 foot from the old.  

Home Depot has them at $19.00 to $17.00 each (8 foot long). I don't think it pays to rehabilitate the old ones.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/YARDGARD-2-19.../100322502

Agreed. Assuming the original posts are set in concrete. Abandon the original posts and sink new posts nearby. You will never make a decent repair to the existing posts.

Personally, I'd cut off the vines and start over. If you leave the rootstock, you will have a newly covered fence in 1 to 2 years.
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#16
(09-20-2017, 01:12 PM)brianwelch Wrote: Could you drop a piece 1" steel pipe, or a solid bar (concrete form pin or rebar) from the top and then pour in some grout (Por-Rock/hydraulic cement) to form an interior splice?

We did this to repair a barrier around a gas meter made of pipe (maybe 2" stuff). Put some rebar down the center, then filled with flowable fill.
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#17
(09-20-2017, 04:00 PM)Mr_Mike Wrote: Personally, I'd cut off the vines and start over.  If you leave the rootstock, you will have a newly covered fence in 1 to 2 years.

I would do this also.
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#18
Angle iron driven in next to post will not work. Posts in concrete. That's why I thought of bolting angle iron on.
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#19
Any reason you cannot detach the plastic lattice from the fence and lay it down? then remove/replace the damaged posts, stand it up and re-attach to the fence OR detach the fence from the posts and do the same thing?
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#20
(09-21-2017, 11:18 AM)vernonator Wrote: Any reason you cannot detach the plastic lattice from the fence and lay it down? then remove/replace the damaged posts, stand it up and re-attach to the fence OR detach the fence from the posts and do the same thing?
It would require cutting most of the vines to remove the lattice.
The reason we want to keep the lattice and vines is for privacy.

Thinking of heating the posts and bending straight. Then reinforcing them, or putting in some new posts.
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