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(11-05-2017, 03:15 PM)DieselDennis Wrote: It's definitely an electrical problem with the ice maker. I'm digging now to see just how far back I need to go to get good source voltage to the ice maker.
With the tan wire cut does it dispense water ? If not the ice maker is probably not the issue. Roly
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(11-05-2017, 04:07 PM)Roly Wrote: With the tan wire cut does it dispense water ? If not the ice maker is probably not the issue. Roly
When I cut the tan wire, it did not dispense water. It acted the same (and voltage tested the same) as it did before I cut the tan wire.
The tan wire is traced directly back to the ice maker. Which seems like a fairly simple device electrically. Only four wires. Power, neutral, ground, and valve signal. So all it needs to do is connect the power to the valve. What I'm finding out now is the ice maker doesn't always get 120 V power from the control board. I'm currently trying to determine if it should, or if the control board is cutting power to it (like if it's full of ice perhaps).
If I could confidently and consistently manipulate the fridge to do what I want it to do, it would make troubleshooting a lot easier.
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11-06-2017, 08:28 AM
(This post was last modified: 11-06-2017, 08:30 AM by daddo.)
Simple things first. Be sure the water screen or valve isn't blocked. If voltage to the coil is dropping below it's rating, check that you haven't a shorted coil, then check the source of the voltage- connections, diode, relays (jump them), board.
Apply direct 120v to each coil(s) and see if that works it. If it does, move on to the reason the voltage is dropping.
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(11-05-2017, 10:32 PM)DieselDennis Wrote: When I cut the tan wire, it did not dispense water. It acted the same (and voltage tested the same) as it did before I cut the tan wire.
The tan wire is traced directly back to the ice maker. Which seems like a fairly simple device electrically. Only four wires. Power, neutral, ground, and valve signal. So all it needs to do is connect the power to the valve. What I'm finding out now is the ice maker doesn't always get 120 V power from the control board. I'm currently trying to determine if it should, or if the control board is cutting power to it (like if it's full of ice perhaps).
If I could confidently and consistently manipulate the fridge to do what I want it to do, it would make troubleshooting a lot easier.
If you look at the bottom right corner of the last schematic you linked to, you will see the IM neutral switch. This is the switch that stops it from making more ice when full or you flip the wire to stop the icemaker.
I see that as independent from the water dispenser. Try removing the fridge side water line from the ISO valve and see if water comes out of it when dispenser is pressed. On my fridge the doors must be closed for it to work. If you have jumper with alligator clips try putting 120 vac directly into the valve if water still does not come out check the inlet side for water. Roly
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Not yet. I ain't giving up though.
The more I test things, it seems that everything is acting normally up until the signals leave the dedicated ice maker & water dispenser valves and come together to the primary valve. It seems to be purely electrical. Likely a short someplace down under the refrigerator. I hate shorts. Too hard to track down.
I may stop by the auto parts store today and see if they have any 3/16" spade terminals. I believe I could build a little harness that would at least let me get the water dispenser functional again.
I tested the diodes Monday night. Tested them as well as I could for still being in the wiring harness at least. They all tested good, but I'm still not convinced.
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Before going deeper in the wiring see if you have water up to the iso valve. The self piercing valves common on where the 1/4" tubing connects to the house water lines are notorious for clogging. Roly
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well so far no response about water in the line so hard to say what is and isn't working
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I quit using ours. If you saw what was in the little storage tank- well- We drink refrigerated bottled water.
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UPDATE:
First off, I have a dedicated water fill box for water. Water pressure is very good at my house.
Two bad things happened last night. First off, I built a little harness that let me plug in to the plug that's goes to the secondary valve for the water dispenser (where I get good 120 V) and split it to the secondary water dispenser valve and the primary water valve. The intention was to make it where we could at least pour purchased ice into the ice bucket and use the water dispenser and return to life as somewhat normal. However, when I pressed the cup up to the dispenser, the primary valve starts knocking again. Get out the meter to test the voltage. I'm getting 120 V to the primary valve and it's still knocking.
So I'm getting good voltage to the primary valve, but it's still not working. Current thoughts are that I've ruined this replacement valve (seems unlikely) or that the computer is limiting the amps in the wire and I don't have enough umph to the solenoids. That seems like a stretch too, because I believe we're talking about fractions of an amp to fire the solenoid. What else could it be though?
The other bad news is that SWMBO officially informed me that she was tired of dealing with the refrigerator not working. I told her I was surprised she wasn't getting the same enjoyment as I was going to the garage to get my electrical tools, pulling the refrigerator out of it's stall, crawling behind it and investigate, and finding clever ways to prop the water dispenser closed. And multiply this enjoyment by 7-10 times over the past few weeks. She didn't see the humor in my statement. So, I've got to start at least seeing about a repairman to at least troubleshoot. I'm afraid it's the computer, which is one of the more expensive parts to replace.
My next plan is to measure the amps the primary solenoid is drawing. And to wire it directly to a plug to see if it's functioning like it should.
Depending on those outcomes, a phone call could be in order.
