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SWMBO wants a tall, skinny, Maple, segmented vase that is dyed bright red. The problem is that the skinny neck is open segments while the body and lip are closed segments. Since I "justified" my new lathe to make this piece (I said SHE wants it, remember?) the time has come to do it.
I've never done an open-segment piece so here's my question. How do I finish the visible holes in the open segments? That end grain won't take dye the same way the edge grain on the outside does and I can't polish it smooth. I'm tempted to spray the inside and end faces black before glue-up.
Any advice for this novice?
Thanks.
SM
We do segmented turning, not because it is easy, but because it is hard.
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(11-16-2017, 08:02 PM)SceneryMaker Wrote: SWMBO wants a tall, skinny, Maple, segmented vase that is dyed bright red. The problem is that the skinny neck is open segments while the body and lip are closed segments. Since I "justified" my new lathe to make this piece (I said SHE wants it, remember?) the time has come to do it.
I've never done an open-segment piece so here's my question. How do I finish the visible holes in the open segments? That end grain won't take dye the same way the edge grain on the outside does and I can't polish it smooth. I'm tempted to spray the inside and end faces black before glue-up.
Any advice for this novice?
Thanks.
SM
I have two DVDs of Sue Harker's who does exactly what you are talking about. If you wish I will loan both of them to you for a month or two. Just PM me OK
As of this time I am not teaching vets to turn. Also please do not send any items to me without prior notification. Thank You Everyone.
It is always the right time, to do the right thing.
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I would be tempted to try sealing the end grain on the segments going into the open-segment area prior to glue-up.
Depending on the effect that you are trying for, you could also try one of the deep-build tinted clear-coat finishes instead of dying the wood. It takes a lot of coats, but some of the demos that I have seen at the woodworking shows are amazing.
I look forward to what the more experienced folks have to say and to seeing pics of your finished turning.
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Could you paint the end grain of the segments black before glue up?
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My vote is for paint first. Don't think it must be black though. Milk Paint???
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I wonder how it would work if you sanded the end grain to a finer grit than the face grain? You could experiment of some pieces with the dye and see what happens.
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(11-17-2017, 07:33 PM)J Lilley Wrote: I wonder how it would work if you sanded the end grain to a finer grit than the face grain? You could experiment of some pieces with the dye and see what happens.
The outside of the vessel (actually mostly edge grain) gets sanded to 400, lacquered, lightly rubbed every few coats, and polished with Yorkshire Grit. Many folks don't like poly because the glossy surface looks like plastic. The Yorkshire Grit makes the dyed maple look and feel like ceramic except it's not cold.
The experiments I've done show the end grain sucking the dye in so much it's virtually black. Regardless of how I color it, I can't get the end grain surfaces to match the outside surface. I can't get it lacquered and polished. I have to hide it somehow.
We do segmented turning, not because it is easy, but because it is hard.
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11-18-2017, 11:09 AM
(This post was last modified: 11-18-2017, 11:23 AM by Angus.)
Do NOT paint the end grain....at least not before sealing it. Paint will soak into the end grain making the edges of the face grain look like crap. I learned the hard way on this. You could try putting a sealer on the end grain THEN painting them. You need to consider this also. you not only have to worry about the end grain but the long grain on the segments above and below the gaps to make it look right. Think of the inside of a box painted black or just the ends of the box painted black. The problem is going to be you'll have to do all the dying and painting after the piece is turned. Last thing to consider with painting the end grain, any glue squeeze out will stand out like a sore thumb. That's just one reason why the painting should be done after assembly.
Edit to add; If I were forced into this situation I would do my normal finishing procedure for open work. sand to at least 400, use minwax antique oil inside and out making sure to get it into the open areas. Wipe off the excess like normal. Then for open work I stand back and turn on the lathe. This forces any finish inside the open portions to the outside of the turning. Wipe off any excess finish and let the turning dry. In a day or two you could use a small brush to paint the open squares. The painted squares can distract the eye from any pattern you've done with the open work.
