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The new carb should have solved it. I would say its a stuck needle valve. It will run until the bowl is empty, then quit.
It starts, that eliminates a spark issue.
Gotta be a fuel issue.
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(11-19-2017, 07:46 PM)crokett™ Wrote: None of the fuel lines got replaced. That was going to be my next thing to try, but I wanted to see if there was anything else I was missing.
fuel lines can deteriorate internally. little chunks-o-line plugger up and wreak havoc in the carbs.
if ya get the fuel issues straightened out ans still hard starting, it could be a coil gap issue.
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Since the problem has not changed, it is an old part causing the problem. Look carefully at the fuel tank cap. It should have a vent. Probably an interior flapper that allows air into the tank(to replace the fuel leaving). You should be able to blow air (by mouth--not compressed) from the outside(top) through the cap. If not, replace the cap.
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(11-21-2017, 11:55 AM)K. L McReynolds Wrote: Since the problem has not changed, it is an old part causing the problem.
yeah. old parts are fuel cap, fuel lines and possibly schmudge fouling the new carb.
I'm going to start with new fuel lines and check the cap.
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(11-21-2017, 12:01 PM)crokett™ Wrote: yeah. old parts are fuel cap, fuel lines and possibly schmudge fouling the new carb.
I'm going to start with new fuel lines and check the cap.
As rwe said check the low oil shut down switch. Items like fuel cap and hoses would allow it to run for several minutes until gas in the bowl was gone, not just a few seconds. Crud in new carb yes. Just disconnect low oil switch and see if that is the problem. Roly
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11-21-2017, 12:42 PM
(This post was last modified: 11-21-2017, 01:09 PM by crokett™.)
(11-21-2017, 12:17 PM)Roly Wrote: Crud in new carb yes.
that's a distinct possibility and the most likely at least for right now. if that's the problem I'll be annoyed. I should have thought of that and either replaced the fuel lines or blown them out before I put the carb on. first thing I will do for the oil is check the level and probably change it.
I've had a fuel cap vent issue before on other equipment, this doesn't act like that.
I should add that this will all be an 'as I have time' + 'if I feel like it'. what I'm thinking of doing is giving it as-is to a brother of mine who needs a generator more than I need the $$ I'd get from it, and he can fix it.
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11-21-2017, 01:21 PM
(This post was last modified: 11-21-2017, 01:22 PM by Mr_Mike.)
Don't just check the level. Bypass the switch. The level switch might be bad. Of course, make sure it really has oil first. Also, were you doing this work with the generator level? That can affect perceived oil level.
Everything points to a safety switch, not fuel.
Run with the gas cap off too to assure you have adequate venting. But, that usually takes more than a few seconds to manifest.
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I had a generator quit on me after we lost power in an ice storm. I checked the oil. It was a little low so I changed it. Ran fine for a couple minutes and then died again. Then we saw ice forming at the gas cap vent. Just enough to close it. I drilled it out just a little and it ran fine after that.
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oil level is fine, but it could probably be changed. I know what a gas cap vent issue is like, had one on a mower, this doesn't act like that, it doesn't run long enough to draw a vacuum on the tank. I located what I'm pretty sure is the oil pressure switch and pulled it off a terminal on the run/stop switch. I had to pull the start pulley off to get to it, that's ok because I needed to do that to replace the fuel lines. The fuel line I got the other day has a larger OD and won't fit where it needs to. It needs to run between the engine block and the flywheel. I need to replace it with smaller OD line. Once I get the smaller line I'll replace all the fuel lines and try again. If it still doesn't work I'll pull the new carb and do my best to clean it out.
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(11-25-2017, 04:49 PM)crokett™ Wrote: oil level is fine, but it could probably be changed. I know what a gas cap vent issue is like, had one on a mower, this doesn't act like that, it doesn't run long enough to draw a vacuum on the tank. I located what I'm pretty sure is the oil pressure switch and pulled it off a terminal on the run/stop switch. I had to pull the start pulley off to get to it, that's ok because I needed to do that to replace the fuel lines. The fuel line I got the other day has a larger OD and won't fit where it needs to. It needs to run between the engine block and the flywheel. I need to replace it with smaller OD line. Once I get the smaller line I'll replace all the fuel lines and try again. If it still doesn't work I'll pull the new carb and do my best to clean it out.
If you have an ohmmeter see if the lead you pulled off shows a ground on the side going back to the float switch or pressure switch. Roly
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