Sandpaper
#11
I have an edge sander which uses long 108" belts.  I've saved a few mostly worn belts for a few years for some strange reason.  Recently while doing lathe projects and sanding on the lathe I got the idea to cut up the warn edge sander belts and try them on lathe work.  I love the extra stiff backing on the belt stock.  It holds its shape better then plain sandpaper and smooths high and low spots decently.   Plus 1 belt gives me 20 chunks of heavy duty sandpaper.    I cut them apart with a utility knife on cardboard backer.   I've also used old belt sander belts on the lathe before and they work about as well but they are not as thick as the edge sanding belts.
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#12
I have some 40 grit that is an old sanding belt that I don't remember where I got it. I like it for the same reasons.
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#13
(12-04-2017, 12:22 PM)turningsSplinter Puller Wrote: I have an edge sander which uses long 108"  belts.  I've saved a few mostly worn belts for a few years for some strange reason.  Recently while doing lathe projects and sanding on the lathe I got the idea to cut up the warn edge sander belts and try them on lathe work.  I love the extra stiff backing on the belt stock.  It holds its shape better then plain sandpaper and smooths high and low spots decently.   Plus 1 belt gives me 20 chunks of heavy duty sandpaper.    I cut them apart with a utility knife on cardboard backer.   I've also used old belt sander belts on the lathe before and they work about as well but they are not as thick as the edge sanding belts.

40 grit in the drum sander on rough lumber, maybe, but I can't imagine using 40 grit on turnings.  Scratches that deep would take forever to work back to smooth.  Good toolwork should make 120/150 the coarsest paper in use, even if you don't power sand.
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#14
(12-05-2017, 04:03 PM)MichaelMouse Wrote: 40 grit in the drum sander on rough lumber, maybe, but I can't imagine using 40 grit on turnings.  Scratches that deep would take forever to work back to smooth.  Good toolwork should make 120/150 the coarsest paper in use, even if you don't power sand.

They are worn belts and not as harsh as new.  Seems to work great for me.
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#15
(12-05-2017, 04:03 PM)MichaelMouse Wrote: 40 grit in the drum sander on rough lumber, maybe, but I can't imagine using 40 grit on turnings.  Scratches that deep would take forever to work back to smooth.  Good toolwork should make 120/150 the coarsest paper in use, even if you don't power sand.

+1.  Anything lower than 120 is using sandpaper for shaping; not for smoothing.  I don't even like 120 grit.  For many species, it still leaves pretty deep scratches.
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Allan Hill
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#16
Worn sand paper is, well... worn sand paper
If it don't hold soup, it's ART!!

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#17
(12-05-2017, 04:03 PM)MichaelMouse Wrote: 40 grit in the drum sander on rough lumber, maybe, but I can't imagine using 40 grit on turnings.  Scratches that deep would take forever to work back to smooth.  Good toolwork should make 120/150 the coarsest paper in use, even if you don't power sand.

Key words there are 'good toolwork'.  I agree that would make 150 the paper to start at but not everybody has good tool work.  Although as I discovered today, it took much ess time than I thought to get rid of the scratches. 'Course I still have to fix the inside....
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#18
(12-04-2017, 12:38 PM)crokett™ Wrote: I have some 40 grit that is an old sanding belt that I don't remember where I got it.  I like it for the same reasons.

Good Grief 40g on wood turning.  So do you use tools or just the sand paper.
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As of this time I am not teaching vets to turn. Also please do not send any items to me without prior notification.  Thank You Everyone.

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#19
(12-06-2017, 12:14 PM)Arlin Eastman Wrote: just the sand paper.
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Dang it!!! You've discovered my secret! 
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#20
There are numerous times I've used 60 grit paper for turning. Sometimes when I can't quite get the subtle curvature change from the tools I'm using and can't risk a scraper. Woods that tear out easily like spalted whatever are better sanded to get a good final surface smoothness.

Another use is when I am turning a pen blank with thin walls that has a tendency to blow apart. I'm not that interested in blowing up a two toned Amboyna burl blank so I'll turn the blank down with about 0.080 remaining to final dimension and sand it the rest of the way until finish sanding
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