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(12-12-2017, 05:00 PM)SceneryMaker Wrote: Apology refused because it WAS a plain ole pine 2x4 from the scrap bin.
Both times!
(I would put a laughing smiley here but I can't get to them with the new forum software.)
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Why not just use say a three inch wide board longer than the diameter of your cole jaws. Set it on the tool rest and move it back and forth across the ring?
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1) I thought just cranking the tailstock would be easier.
2) A lot of people use sandpaper on a board so I had to look for some other way. I had a pretty good career doing things differently than everybody else and I guess I still have the habit.
We do segmented turning, not because it is easy, but because it is hard.
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(12-12-2017, 07:11 PM)SceneryMaker Wrote: 1) I thought just cranking the tailstock would be easier.
2) A lot of people use sandpaper on a board so I had to look for some other way. I had a pretty good career doing things differently than everybody else and I guess I still have the habit.
Just thinking here Ken
With the sanding disc off set from center and cranking it down I would think it would put unequal pressure on it since the very bottom may deflect some.
I made a big 15" one for my lathe and just glued up and cut some 1x12s in many pieces and glued them up until I got 15.5" and then taken the rest off.
As of this time I am not teaching vets to turn. Also please do not send any items to me without prior notification. Thank You Everyone.
It is always the right time, to do the right thing.
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If I crank hard on the tailstock, the whole thing chatters and bounces but a light touch just throws clouds of sanding dust out, letting the paper do the work. The disk doesn't deflect with the light load.
We do segmented turning, not because it is easy, but because it is hard.
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You can always use the old fashioned way by spray gluing a piece of sandpaper on MDF. I don’t have a drum sander so I use this to get my rings flat.
Don
