Outfeed Table
#31
That's a very nice setup, Cian! I just can't spare the room for a table that size. I already have a standalone router table on casters that works OK for my projects.

Thanks,

Doug
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#32
(12-15-2017, 07:31 PM)Tapper Wrote: 110 looks and one response? C'mon guys, I know someone has to have built one of these - let's see those pics!


Laugh
Laugh  I'd post some pics, but I only have one of those Rigid flip-top things.  And it works so well, I never got around to making an outfeed table, even though it would be superior in most ways.  But the flip-top thing works better than my roller-on-a-stand (doesn't steer the stock like the roller will if it's not perpendicular to the fence), and works well enough that I just don't feel like bothering with a table.
Tom

“This place smells like that odd combination of flop sweat, hopelessness, aaaand feet"
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#33
(12-21-2017, 11:59 AM)TDKPE Wrote:
Laugh
Laugh  I'd post some pics, but I only have one of those Rigid flip-top things.  And it works so well, I never got around to making an outfeed table, even though it would be superior in most ways.  But the flip-top thing works better than my roller-on-a-stand (doesn't steer the stock like the roller will if it's not perpendicular to the fence), and works well enough that I just don't feel like bothering with a table.

I've been so tempted to get one of those Ridgid Flip Tops and call it the day.  But must build router outfeed table.  Must build router outfeed table.  Must build router outfeed table...
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#34
Another idea is an outfeed table that doesn't attach permanently to the saw and hangs on a wall when not in use. I like the use of Magswitches in the first link.

https://i.pinimg.com/736x/f2/52/fa/f252f...-plans.jpg

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/86074

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/63257
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#35
Here's another option, I didn't make it, made by Bill (Skizzo). I picked it up from him when he switched from an old Unisaw to a Powermatic saw.

Sorry it's not attached right now but it was made for a Biesemeyer fence and my Unisaw has the stock fence right now.   It has a fixed section with with fixed legs and slots for a miter gauge/sled plus a fold-down (piano hinge) section with folding legs.  You can see the wood with bolts on the left that attach to the fence rail.

52" wide
15" deep - first, fixed section
18" deep - second, fold-down section

   
   
Carl




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#36
(12-22-2017, 07:42 PM)Lynden Wrote: Another idea is an outfeed table that doesn't attach permanently to the saw and hangs on a wall when not in use. I like the use of Magswitches in the first link.

https://i.pinimg.com/736x/f2/52/fa/f252f...-plans.jpg

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/86074

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/63257

Some nice designs here - I like the look and size of the one in the first link. I am still leaning towards having it hinge at the back of the saw. My saw is on a mobile base and is very easy to move around as needed. If the outfeed table remains on the saw and is retracted in the down position, it's much easier to move saw and table around together. Will not have to detach the table and store it somewhere.

Doug
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#37
(12-22-2017, 09:10 PM)wrx4sabelle Wrote: Here's another option, I didn't make it, made by Bill (Skizzo). I picked it up from him when he switched from an old Unisaw to a Powermatic saw.

Sorry it's not attached right now but it was made for a Biesemeyer fence and my Unisaw has the stock fence right now.   It has a fixed section with with fixed legs and slots for a miter gauge/sled plus a fold-down (piano hinge) section with folding legs.  You can see the wood with bolts on the left that attach to the fence rail.

52" wide
15" deep - first, fixed section
18" deep - second, fold-down section

Nice looking table, albeit a little larger and more elaborate than I was thinking. Thanks for posting!

Doug
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#38
I didn't want to hang a bunch of weight off the back rail of my sawstop, so I used a torsion box style of construction with 1/8" masonite and melamine over the top and bottom surfaces.

I attached to the back rail with a set of two standard door hinges.

And drilled a couple 5/16" holes for the bolts, this allows enough adjustment to get the front edge of the table level.


I also hinged it in the middle so I could get twice the outfeed surface area out of it.

I find that that having it somewhat flimsy really helps keep from leaving it up and piling stuff up that I would then have to move to use the table saw.

Duke
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#39
(12-16-2017, 08:29 PM)Hank Knight Wrote: I have a SawStop ICS. It came with a warped table extension. SawStop sent me a new one. I found that the warp in the original extension was due to a warped support member in the frame. I replaced the warped support and built an outfield table with the original extension. I sawed it in half and attached one half to the "L" bracket on the back of the saw. I supported it with the original legs that came with the extension. I added a piano hinge and two folding/locking leg brackets to the other half and now have a folding outfield table that works very well. Photos:

[Image: IMG_0251.jpg]

[Image: IMG_0246.jpg]

After these photos were taken, I cut dados in the outfield table with a router and installed aluminum miter tracks for my miter gauge and crosscut sleds. You can see them behind the sled in this photo:

[Image: IMG_0551.jpg]


Where did you get plan for the sled and where did you buy the adjustable flip down stop? Thanks!
Watch your fingers!!


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#40
I think THIS is the best one I've seen.
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