Can't get my dado stack to the right dimension.

[Handplanesandmore]

As part of setting up my new-to-me Unisaw, I am trying to make a crosscut sled and want to put t-tracks in the top surface.  I have been trying to get the dimensions correct but the setting seems all over the place.

Why did the dado and the T-tracks have to be a perfect fit? Am I missing something here?

If you cut the dado a hair wider, simply butt the t-track to one side side of the dado and screw.

Simon

[photobug]

Why did the dado and the T-tracks have to be a perfect fit? Am I missing something here?

If you cut the dado a hair wider, simply butt the t-track to one side side of the dado and screw.

Simon

It doesn't, when I got to a hair wide I was going to go with it.  It was more than a hair wide until I removed all the shims.  I am interested in knowing the exact dimension I need for this dimension as I plan to be making cabinets, bookshelves and more with this saw and dado stack soon.

Right now I just need to figure out where to put the T-tracks into my new crosscut sled.

[s9plus20]

Another method to cut a very accurate slot is to use a Kerfmaker from Bridge City Tools.
You just set your dado width to less than the slot and use the tool to make two passes.
(no need for any shims)

Its a marvelous little tool!

Tool:
http://www.bridgecitytools.com/default/f...maker.html


Usage:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eFpNxtiSaYY

[Handplanesandmore]

Another method to cut a very accurate slot is to use a Kerfmaker from Bridge City Tools.
You just set your dado width to less than the slot and use the tool to make two passes.
(no need for any shims)

Or, if one does not do enough dados to justify buying one but still wants to use that technique, go to lumberjocks.com and search "kerfmaker" to find many shop-made versions of that tool, including some fancy ones.

Simon

[photobug]

Another method to cut a very accurate slot is to use a Kerfmaker from Bridge City Tools.
You just set your dado width to less than the slot and use the tool to make two passes.
(no need for any shims)

Its a marvelous little tool!

Tool:
http://www.bridgecitytools.com/default/f...maker.html


Usage:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eFpNxtiSaYY

It is a little like the Microjig Dado Stop tool, wich I just added to my collection but have yet to use.  Seeing the Kerfmaker has given me ideas of how I could use the Dado Stop Tool to do one or two dados at a time.


Here is an update on my Dado stack usage.  I removed one of the 1/8 chipper and put in a 1/16th chipper along with number of shims.  I put a caliper on the stack and came up with 25/32, ran it over a board and it was 25/32.  I took at the last shim which was 1/32 and replaced it with a 1/128.  I made two dados that fit my T-track beautifully.  I left the stack aside to know what was an exact fit for a 3/4 dado is.  I now have a set of steel shims and will replace the worn out plastic shims with the steel, then use the thinner plastic to get an exact dado.  I am about to make a household full of shelving and bookcases.  My new Unisaw, Bies fence and Dado stack should make this easier. 

The crosscut sled also came out really nice.  I used a framing square to get a rough estimate on the face location.  I made a 3 5-cut tests to see where it was and, it averaged .00038" per inch out of square.  I don't know if i want to even mess with trying to get it closer.

[Alan S]

Congratulations on getting everything sorted out.  Rather than keeping the stack and shims apart from the rest, you can simply keep a list of which chippers and which shims to use for that size cut.  If for some reason you don't trust all the 1/8" chippers to be the same, you can just label them individually so you know which ones to use for what.

[DaveR1]

...so I walk around the saw duck under my miter station unplug the saw... 

Now that you have the dado width sorted out, here's a suggestion to keep you from doing the gymnastics. I mounted an electrical disconnect box on my saw. It's located where I can reach it easily from the front of the saw. When I need to change the blade or do other work on the saw, I pull out the handle and lay it on top where I can see it.


I haven't needed to do it but if there's ever a concern about some unauthorized use of the saw, I can remove the handle or turn it over and lock the door.

[photobug]

Congratulations on getting everything sorted out.  Rather than keeping the stack and shims apart from the rest, you can simply keep a list of which chippers and which shims to use for that size cut.  If for some reason you don't trust all the 1/8" chippers to be the same, you can just label them individually so you know which ones to use for what.

That is the plan.  My new shims are of a different size than my old set.  I put my caliper on them and labeled them, I will be doing the same on the chippers, and labeling them 1-6.  I will come up with a base dimension (1/4, 3/8, /5/8) with chipper combos then using shims to come up with my desired dado width.

I am pretty sure the kit came with a page of instructions that had this but that was lost a while back.

Now that you have the dado width sorted out, here's a suggestion to keep you from doing the gymnastics. I mounted an electrical disconnect box on my saw. It's located where I can reach it easily from the front of the saw. When I need to change the blade or do other work on the saw, I pull out the handle and lay it on top where I can see it.

You'll have to trust me on this but I don't look anything like a gymnast when unplugging my saw, probably more like a plumber.

I absolutely need to something like this.  Even when not tired the effort to unplug this saw is such that I have stopped doing it and I need to come up with a solution like this.  The fact that the saw is a 3 phase with a VFD might make it easier or harder to create a cutt-off switch.   The home circuit breaker panel is actually much closer and easier to get to than the power cord.  I will try that today to see how it's shut-off affects the VFD, if I make it into the shop.

[Stwood_]

Glad you got your dado shims conquered.
 

On the saw plug/unplug. I just step over to my elec panel and shut the breaker off.

[TadMcD]

I spent what seemed like a full day last week with my new stacked dado set (Freud 508) making every combination dado width (I think there are 20, not including shims).

I took a couple off-cuts I had laying about (hardwood) and cut each combination into a long series of "sample" cuts. Then, when I was ready to make the dado cuts for my project, I matched up the "best" fit for the material I was using (birch ply), stacked up the dado cutters, and made a test dado in an off-cut of the birch ply. I was able to simply add a shim or two to make a Goldilocks dado ("just right").

Each cut in the hardwood is labeled to include the various stack pieces (e.g., 1/8 chippers, 1/16 chipper, outside cutters, etc.) and what should be the dimension (e.g., 3/4"). I also set the depth to 1/4" since that's the most common dado depth I use, so I can use the sample cuts to also quickly set the dado height on the table saw.

Major PITA doing all the stack, un-stack, re-stack, re-cut, lather, rinse repeat, but I'm hoping it will save time/aggravation in future.

(oh, yeah. i also just walk over to the panel and turn the breaker on/off. when the power to the saw is "on," i leave the panel door open; when it's "off," i close the door. belts/suspenders.)