12-25-2017, 01:22 PM
(This post was last modified: 12-25-2017, 01:29 PM by petertay15.)
This build-along is shared because I enjoy seeing what others have posted here. My work is not exemplary in any way; what I know about woodworking has been learned from Youtube.
My self-assigned design requirements:
* King-size to fit our bed
* Walnut (since that is what we have, cut and dried on our property)
* Compatible with other old furniture in our old farmhouse–no particular style but all straight lines (meaning what I can accomplish on a table saw)
* Appropriately sized for a high vaulted ceiling
* Mattress top is 36 inches off floor, (sitting on a box spring that sits on a storage box)
* Must be transportable in pieces (to get it up our narrow stairway)
* And, of course, make it heirloom quality
1
These may not be the exact walnut boards used, but typical of what I have to work with.
2
Sketch showing how I envisioned the transportable parts.
3
The first decision was to make the end posts of three boards, wrapped around a spacer. The bevel-edge hides the glue joint, making the posts appear as a solid post.
4
Glue up of end posts.
5
Top of post. Board marked W is the spacer. On the left you can see how the tenon of the face frame fits into the post.
6
Starting the rails and stiles that are two boards thick. Thus the end posts are thicker than the frame.
6a
The, removable crown designed to be similar in style to a large armoire in the same room. (Old house has no closets.)
7
How to make the three raised panels. I layed out short scraps, hoping for a good match of grain and figure. Any combination might have been made to work, but my wife asked if I might use the more dramatic crotch wood in a 5x6” flitch that was lying in the walnut pile. Interesting question. I don’t have any way to cut it into veneer, and anyway, I want the bed to be solid walnut, not veneer. So to the table saw we went.
8
The flitch was sawn into 3/8 inch boards.
9
Face boards were run across the jointer so they could be glued into panels.
10
Asked on this forum if I could make panels of 3/8 boards and was advised against it, so I glued the fancy face boards to 3/8 backer boards.
11
Dry fitting the panels to see if everything would work out.
12
Scrapping the panels. These panels wont look as if they werre run through a sander, but I don’t want them to be lumpy either.
13
After the panels were complete, they went to the router with a raised-panel bit. The panels were not precisely flat, so they did not track perfectly against the router bit. I had to do some detail work with a chisel to straighten out the bevel lines.
14
Staining the unfinished project. Well below freezing every night, both in the shop and outside, but the wood stove brings the temp up.
15
At home. All is at rest.
My self-assigned design requirements:
* King-size to fit our bed
* Walnut (since that is what we have, cut and dried on our property)
* Compatible with other old furniture in our old farmhouse–no particular style but all straight lines (meaning what I can accomplish on a table saw)
* Appropriately sized for a high vaulted ceiling
* Mattress top is 36 inches off floor, (sitting on a box spring that sits on a storage box)
* Must be transportable in pieces (to get it up our narrow stairway)
* And, of course, make it heirloom quality
1
These may not be the exact walnut boards used, but typical of what I have to work with.
2
Sketch showing how I envisioned the transportable parts.
3
The first decision was to make the end posts of three boards, wrapped around a spacer. The bevel-edge hides the glue joint, making the posts appear as a solid post.
4
Glue up of end posts.
5
Top of post. Board marked W is the spacer. On the left you can see how the tenon of the face frame fits into the post.
6
Starting the rails and stiles that are two boards thick. Thus the end posts are thicker than the frame.
6a
The, removable crown designed to be similar in style to a large armoire in the same room. (Old house has no closets.)
7
How to make the three raised panels. I layed out short scraps, hoping for a good match of grain and figure. Any combination might have been made to work, but my wife asked if I might use the more dramatic crotch wood in a 5x6” flitch that was lying in the walnut pile. Interesting question. I don’t have any way to cut it into veneer, and anyway, I want the bed to be solid walnut, not veneer. So to the table saw we went.
8
The flitch was sawn into 3/8 inch boards.
9
Face boards were run across the jointer so they could be glued into panels.
10
Asked on this forum if I could make panels of 3/8 boards and was advised against it, so I glued the fancy face boards to 3/8 backer boards.
11
Dry fitting the panels to see if everything would work out.
12
Scrapping the panels. These panels wont look as if they werre run through a sander, but I don’t want them to be lumpy either.
13
After the panels were complete, they went to the router with a raised-panel bit. The panels were not precisely flat, so they did not track perfectly against the router bit. I had to do some detail work with a chisel to straighten out the bevel lines.
14
Staining the unfinished project. Well below freezing every night, both in the shop and outside, but the wood stove brings the temp up.
15
At home. All is at rest.