Loft Railing
#21
Stair and balcony railings require serious safety considerations.  If you plan to build your own components you will want to get a copy of your state and local building code requirements.  I've attached newel posts a couple of different ways, but I like Sure-Tite bolts.  

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The most important thing is they have to screw into a joist or serious blocking.  Sometimes, you have to tear up a piece of the floor and add a cripple as I did for this  one.  The newel posts are built with a large solid block glued in the center. 

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The nut is attached to a socket on the end of a long threaded rod to reach down through the newel and bolt it in place.  

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The half newels are screwed to the wall where they will later be covered.  If there is no structure behind you have to add some.  

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The bottom plate has a dado plowed in it.  You screw it to the floor, set the balusters in place and then glue spacers between them.  

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The handrail is bolted to the newels.  There are several ways to do that; here's one.

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Like on the bottom, spacers are glued between the balusters.  

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Handrails going down a flight of stairs have different requirements.  The have to be graspable; that's why you need your state and local codes because they may be very specific.  On this balustrade I used handrails like this, and you can see how much different it is compared to the balcony handrail.  

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Do your homework, build solid, and you'll be fine.  

John
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#22
To the OP. Check code on baluster spacing before you build. Methinks the pictures you posted are not to code.
chris
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#23
John, thank you for the detailed write up and photos. Looks like you do very nice work. I agree, railing is serious topic that deserves serious attention. Hope I can do it justice.

PS: I like your Craftsman drill, I think I have one just like it. Still going strong after 37 years!
True power makes no noise - Albert Schweitzer.       It's obvious he was referring to hand tools
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#24
(01-15-2018, 07:55 PM)doobes Wrote: To the OP.  Check code on baluster spacing before you build. Methinks the pictures you posted are not to code.

Those stairs were done by a local professional, balusters are spaced at about 4 1/8", and they do meet code.  They are the sturdiest railings I've ever seen.

In the installation I will do, I plan on just under 4" baluster spacing, which will also meet code in that area.  Thanks for reminding me!
True power makes no noise - Albert Schweitzer.       It's obvious he was referring to hand tools
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#25
(01-15-2018, 07:55 PM)doobes Wrote: Check code on baluster spacing before you build. 

Also, check your local code for the required balcony railing height. I've seen 36", 38" and 42".
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#26
This LINK  is very much like the one I used.  It will at least give you a good overview of the requirements although the details may change in your locale.

John
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#27
I checked this book out from my local library, should be ready to pick up tomorrow.

Stairs & Railings
Step-by-step Projects
By Beneke, Jeff

Also wrote a note to the local inspector, asking for the regs on railings.  He's pretty approachable, always willing to help out.
True power makes no noise - Albert Schweitzer.       It's obvious he was referring to hand tools
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#28
Here's an update.

That book I checked out was not terribly helpful, can't really recommend it.

I've made some decisions on materials and methods, based on comments here, web searches, and availability.

I am going to make the newel posts and railings myself.  They will be very simple design, basically I'll just put bevels on certain edges, that's it.  Picked up some nice clear Douglas Fir at a local supplier.  I decided to go this route because I can't find Douglas Fir railings or posts.  I want them to match my Douglas Fir flooring.  Lots of oak, poplar, hemlock, pine, maple.  No DF.  
Sad

The balusters will be 3/4" round black steel from Home Depot, fitted between the bottom plate and top rail.

I will use the Key-Lock system to attach the newel posts and the Zipbolt Slipfix Railbolt 13.801 to attach handrails to the newel posts.  That's it.  Hopefully a fairly simple job with sturdy results.
True power makes no noise - Albert Schweitzer.       It's obvious he was referring to hand tools
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#29
Sounds good. Throw up some build pics.

On your steel balusters, are you talking black gas/water pipe?
If so, consider using conduit. Lighter, cheaper on the pocket book.
Steve

Mo.



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#30
(01-14-2018, 03:55 PM)Stwood_ Wrote: This is what I always used on my staircase installations. The KeyLock brand

Google newel post locks. https://www.google.com/search?q=newel+po...8&oe=utf-8


On the handrail to wall application, I used hangar bolts. The hole *under* the railing was plugged when I got done.

Yes, get a book as recommended above

Do these work well for the bottom newel?  

John
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