Best way to flatten the back of a chisel

[Peter Tremblay]

Hello all,

I'm about to finish building a kitchen island.  I'll post pictures when I'm finish.

In the process I decided to use some of my older rehabbed chisels when I was reaching for a chisel to make some paring cuts and I was rather frustrated to see that most of my antiques don't work very well as paring chisels because they are far from flat on the back.

Some of them are really far from flat.

I never used these too much for delicate parings cuts because I have other chisels which I used to reach for first.  

What do you recommend for removing a lot of material to make these flat?  One needs about 1/16" of steel to be removed in one place for it to be flat.

The other alternative is to grind it back 3/8"

Is this feasible without hours of labor or should I just go back to using other chisels that I know are flat and keep these to admire them but not use them for paring?

[jerry s]

Hello all,

I'm about to finish building a kitchen island.  I'll post pictures when I'm finish.

In the process I decided to use some of my older rehabbed chisels when I was reaching for a chisel to make some paring cuts and I was rather frustrated to see that most of my antiques don't work very well as paring chisels because they are far from flat on the back.

Some of them are really far from flat.

I never used these too much for delicate parings cuts because I have other chisels which I used to reach for first.  

What do you recommend for removing a lot of material to make these flat?  One needs about 1/16" of steel to be removed in one place for it to be flat.

The other alternative is to grind it back 3/8"

Is this feasible without hours of labor or should I just go back to using other chisels that I know are flat and keep these to admire them but not use them for paring?

peter i would probably use the one i know work. as far as your old chisels i would start with the grinder just to save time then use what ever course stone you have.  jerry

[MichaelMouse]

I'm about to finish building a kitchen island.  I'll post pictures when I'm finish.

In the process I decided to use some of my older rehabbed chisels when I was reaching for a chisel to make some paring cuts and I was rather frustrated to see that most of my antiques don't work very well as paring chisels because they are far from flat on the back.

Some of them are really far from flat.

I never used these too much for delicate parings cuts because I have other chisels which I used to reach for first.  

What do you recommend for removing a lot of material to make these flat?  One needs about 1/16" of steel to be removed in one place for it to be flat.

The other alternative is to grind it back 3/8"

Is this feasible without hours of labor or should I just go back to using other chisels that I know are flat and keep these to admire them but not use them for paring?

Butt chisels were certainly not made for paring, so leave 'em alone and feel free to whack with a mallet.  What they were designed for.  

If there's no shoulder on the ones which might work, take them from their handles, back with a piece of wood to give yourself a grip, and start lapping against sandpaper or free grit.  Finer and finer with a carbon high spot reveal.  Shouldn't take forever.  Unless you're an EXTREMELY delicate touch, I don't think I'd go all the way to a grinder.

If they're real antiques, with hardened steel welded to soft, you might be able to start with a mill file.

[Admiral]

Fr. Peter, if there's enough usable length in the chisel afterwards, I'd grind it back, otherwise you'll be spending a lot of time on the back. 1/16th is a lot of flattening. Otherwise, the chisel is doing you no good the way it is.

[Timberwolf]

Hello all,

I'm about to finish building a kitchen island.  I'll post pictures when I'm finish.

In the process I decided to use some of my older rehabbed chisels when I was reaching for a chisel to make some paring cuts and I was rather frustrated to see that most of my antiques don't work very well as paring chisels because they are far from flat on the back.

Some of them are really far from flat.

I never used these too much for delicate parings cuts because I have other chisels which I used to reach for first.  

What do you recommend for removing a lot of material to make these flat?  One needs about 1/16" of steel to be removed in one place for it to be flat.

The other alternative is to grind it back 3/8"

Is this feasible without hours of labor or should I just go back to using other chisels that I know are flat and keep these to admire them but not use them for paring?

..........
Stationary belt sander for the heavy work..Used with a foot switch....lay the chisel right flat on the belt, then hit the foot switch, switch off before removing it from the belt...Finish on stones or sandpaper.

[Arch_E]

Fr. Peter, ... 1/16th is a lot of flattening.

Indeed, it's typically very lengthy to remove that much from a chisel back!!!!!!

To address your question, I have a Sigma 120 water stone that is a monster at eating away older steel (W, O1). The problem is that it leaves such deep grooves that I refuse to use it on blade backs (which is what I bought it for). So, I typically use low grit sandpaper and suffer my inherent problem of introducing new angles to the back that have to be corrected. My next step is to get a disc sander and try that. Well, actually, I bought some better chisels that don't require me to be a machinist to get them working. I USE those now and, as time allows, have fun rehabbing the others.

[rwe2156]

You will have to go to grinding or a belt sander to remove that much material.  If its really 1/16" I wouldn't bother with it.

Its also telling me that chisel was never a high quality tool.

Many chisels are hardened only toward the end. If its very old and been sharpened 1000's of times & you grind back 3/8" you may have to re-temper.

[Peter Tremblay]

Butt chisels were certainly not made for paring, so leave 'em alone and feel free to whack with a mallet.  What they were designed for.  

If there's no shoulder on the ones which might work, take them from their handles, back with a piece of wood to give yourself a grip, and start lapping against sandpaper or free grit.  Finer and finer with a carbon high spot reveal.  Shouldn't take forever.  Unless you're an EXTREMELY delicate touch, I don't think I'd go all the way to a grinder.

If they're real antiques, with hardened steel welded to soft, you might be able to start with a mill file.

I'll try a file.

These are not butt chisels.  I was trying a couple old Stanley and Greenlee wide bench chisels along with an old timber framing chisel.

I really like the weight of a timber framing chisel for paring as it requires a very delicate touch because of the mass in the chisel.

[Peter Tremblay]

..........
Stationary belt sander for the heavy work..Used with a foot switch....lay the chisel right flat on the belt, then hit the foot switch, switch off before removing it from the belt...Finish on stones or sandpaper.

I don't have a belt sander but that is what came to my mind as the obvious solution.

The foot switch is a good idea.

Thanks, Jack

[Timberwolf]

I don't have a belt sander but that is what came to my mind as the obvious solution.

The foot switch is a good idea.

Thanks, Jack

..............
My pleasure Peter...I hope you are doing well....we miss you here on woodnet...but understand why you don't post more often..

The reason for the foot switch is, as you know but others may not,, is to allow the use of both hands to steady the tool as the belt starts spinning and as it stops..Placing {or removing} it on a moving belt {or disc} can result in marring the "flat" you just created.