Buffing with a ROS

[Peter Tremblay]

Hello all,

I was wondering if anyone ever uses their random orbit sander to buff out a top coat, especially a wax finish?

If so what do you use for a buffer?

I recently tried a product called Rubio Monocoat and it recommends being buffed with a white abrasive pad and then maybe a tarry towel like pad.

I got a white pad from the hardware store and stuck that to my ROS and I'm not sure it worked all that well.  It was also very hard to get the white stuff out of the velcro hooks at the bottom of the ROS.

I like the ease of this finish but I haven't quite figured out how to buff it yet.  

I ended up doing it by hand with a bunch of paper show towels.

[Philip1231]

This works well:

Hello all,

I was wondering if anyone ever uses their random orbit sander to buff out a top coat, especially a wax finish?

If so what do you use for a buffer?

I recently tried a product called Rubio Monocoat and it recommends being buffed with a white abrasive pad and then maybe a tarry towel like pad.

I got a white pad from the hardware store and stuck that to my ROS and I'm not sure it worked all that well.  It was also very hard to get the white stuff out of the velcro hooks at the bottom of the ROS.

I like the ease of this finish but I haven't quite figured out how to buff it yet.  

I ended up doing it by hand with a bunch of paper show towels.

[FS7]

This works well:

+1 on the Porter Cable pad. I do this often and I started with some loose-fitting six-inch terry pads that I found at Home Depot. They worked OK, but I ordered a few of the Porter Cable pads online (probably Amazon) and I've been using them ever since. Once they get dirty, I just wash them. They will bend and hold a bent shape after washing but that's not a problem with the hook and loop fasteners.

Rubbing compound, polishing compound, and paste wax all work well with it. The more abrasive finishes make it a bit too easy to get through the top coat, so use multiple coats if you're going this route. With multiple coats of Polycrylic (or something similar) you can get a very smooth glass-like finish similar to that provided by shellac polishing. I only do this on desktops and tabletops.

[Peter Tremblay]

Thank you very much

I'll try that

[Dennis Puskar]

Thank you very much

I'll try that

I'll have to try that to didn't know that PC sold them.

[jteneyck]

I used this one from Griot's Garage for polishing wax.  Prior to that I used a set of foam pads to apply cutting/polishing compound.  I think I bought them at HF.  Anyway, I found my ROS to do a great job for both tasks.  

John

[KingwoodFan1989]

I've used my ROS with Micro Mesh disks and an interface pad to get a high sheen. I tried out a yellow foam buffing pad from Harbor Freight on my old Porter Cable sander (a WOOD magazine article said it could be used on a ROS), but for some reason it ruined 2 hook and loop pads in nothing flat. I'm kind of afraid to use any type of buffer pad on my ROS now. The Micro Mesh works great. Something like Behlen's Buffer polish or Maguiar's Ultimate will still give a higher sheen than 12k (at least from what I've seen), but that mostly comes into play with darker woods and finishes. On light woods I've stopped at 12k. It's best to use mineral spirits along with the Micro Mesh to help prolong the life of the abrasives, though. Here are some links:

Sanding Disks: https://www.amazon.com/Micro-Mesh-5-Disk...nding+pads

Interface Pad: https://www.amazon.com/Soft-Density-Inte...erface+pad

[BaileyNo5]

Hi Peter

I'm not familiar with Rubio Monocoat, but I assume it is some kind of varnish or lacquer?

At any rate, I can relate my buffing experience, which is based on the Beall buffing system, typically used on a lathe.  You wouldn't use the Beall system for your application, I don't think it would work well on flat surfaces.

But....you can take some ideas from it, I think.  It consists of three lambs wool applicators for your ROS, combined with buffing compounds.  In your case, you would get 3 lambs wool pads.  Charge the first with a brown tripoli bar (Lee Valley) and buff the surface.  Wipe the surface clean.  Charge the second with a white diamond buffing compound, also a bar (don't know where to get this, one came with my Beall system) and buff the surface.  Wipe the surface clean.  Charge the third with a hard carnauba  wax and buff.  

By the time you get to the 3rd stage, you'll need sunglasses.  

[Peter Tremblay]

Hi Peter

I'm not familiar with Rubio Monocoat, but I assume it is some kind of varnish or lacquer?

I really am not sure what it is.

Rubio Monocoat

The instructions are to apply a heavy layer  and then wipe off the excess after a few minutes.

Then buff to remove and smooth the surface.

I'll take a look at the Beall system

[Snipe Hunter]

Peter, I can't tell you how well a ROS will buff a wood finish but I can tell you there is a growing movement where they are being used in body-shops. A couple words of caution... but at a low speed so the friction doesn't heat your finish at all. A heated finish won't buff, it will soften the finish. Soft finishes won't buff well. Buff in a cool place out of direct sunlight. I use a High Speed, variable DeWalt buffer but I set it to it's lowest speed (1000rpm) and only pull the trigger about half way. My best guess is that I'm buffing at 600 rpm. A ROS has lower rpm but is still more aggressive because if it's violent random nature. Be careful and don't press too hard. Just use the weight of the sander. BTW, I use a Proter Cable right angle ROS for sanding and buffing. I use a 5" and 6" disc. 5" "Stick-It and 6" Hook-It. I use the 6" for buffing. Again, It's more aggressive than a traditional circular buffer, go easy.