Resawing with a Delta 14" bandsaw
#17
(01-25-2018, 11:01 AM)Alan S Wrote: One of the most important factors in resawing is the sharpness of a blade: it will dull so it does not resaw well before it seems dull for other uses.  This is more noticeable with a lower-powered saw.  The woodslicer will be very sharp as you get it, but to get the best use of it I would restrict its use to resawing or at least straight cuts.  It has very little set so it cuts a narrow kerf, wasting less wood and requiring less power, but that means it cuts curves poorly and should be used with dry stable wood.

Since you want it to cut the wood you have, that means some wider stock may not behave well, as John has pointed out.  If the blade deflects it will neither conserve wood nor require less power than a blade with more set.  But if the wood is dry and stable, it can behave.  Cutting quite slowly I have resawn 11" of maple on an underpowered saw with a sharp woodslicer.  

If you have not resawn before, you may be surprised at how slowly you need to cut to get good results.  This is because the large amount of sawdust formed can fill the gullets between the teeth, preventing cutting unless the blade deflects.  If you have problems, try cutting slower, though this won't fix everything.
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"One of the most important factors in resawing is the sharpness of a blade: it will dull so it does not resaw well before it seems dull for other uses. This is more noticeable with a lower-powered saw."

+1... Plus, even a new blade can be made noticeably "sharper" with the use of a Dremel and a properly fitted diamond burr.
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#18
(01-25-2018, 09:41 PM)handi Wrote: I do it all the time, and I am using the factory guides. 1/2” is easy, I can successfully slice 5-6” wood down to about 1/8” using a 3/4” Timberwolf blade. 6” wide boards do require removing the upper blade guard above the guard or it will grind on the upper wheel.

Check your Delta.  Mine is 6 1/4 clearance.  But a "6"" board is 5 1/2 if you're buying, and anything you want if you're doing the joinery, so no worries about removing and losing that blade guidance.
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#19
(01-26-2018, 10:59 AM)MichaelMouse Wrote: Check your Delta.  Mine is 6 1/4 clearance.  But a "6"" board is 5 1/2 if you're buying, and anything you want if you're doing the joinery, so no worries about removing and losing that blade guidance.

Yep the Walnut I had bought was a tad too big.  I had to cut only a fraction of an inch off and it made me sad to have to do so.

Just wanted to report back on my experience.  My Woodslicer arrived on Wednesday.  I took out the big chunks of wood I had just bought, cherry, maple and walnut.  I cut 13 inches off of each board and set up my clamping bar with a 90 degree fence.  I used my whiteside setup bars to set the fence and cut 1/2, 3/8, and 1/4" slices of each board.

I made a few errors, so they are not perfect but they should be able to be cleaned up using a sled on my thickness planer, which I had a drum sander.  All in all an extremely satisfying experience.  I ordered a few more blades from supercuts.  When those wear out I will consider adding a riser to the saw.

https://forums.woodnet.net/attachment.php?aid=7584
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#20
(01-27-2018, 12:39 PM)photobug Wrote: Yep the Walnut I had bought was a tad too big.  I had to cut only a fraction of an inch off and it made me sad to have to do so.

Just wanted to report back on my experience.  My Woodslicer arrived on Wednesday.  I took out the big chunks of wood I had just bought, cherry, maple and walnut.  I cut 13 inches off of each board and set up my clamping bar with a 90 degree fence.  I used my whiteside setup bars to set the fence and cut 1/2, 3/8, and 1/4" slices of each board.

I made a few errors, so they are not perfect but they should be able to be cleaned up using a sled on my thickness planer, which I had a drum sander.  All in all an extremely satisfying experience.  I ordered a few more blades from supercuts.  When those wear out I will consider adding a riser to the saw.

https://forums.woodnet.net/attachment.php?aid=7584

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#21
I've read all the reply's and I'm surprised on all the comments on particular blades and horse power. 

Those things can help, but are not the most important issues when resawing. Little HP is actually needed for a good resaw. 1/2 hp will even work. The most important issue is how well tuned the saw is. 

First, the wider the cut the better the chance is the blade can flex. This will be amplified once you add a riser block, So first, you must be able to properly tension the blade. Many small cheap band saws do not have enough spring tension. The blade can bow and flex, or the operator may buy a blade that is not right for the saw they are using. Many operators think a wide blade should make a better straighter cut, it only makes sense, but they are wrong, most 14 inch bandsaws cannot properly tension a blade wider that 1/2 inch. If I was having trouble resawing I would consider getting stiffer springs.

The blade needs wide deep gullets to clear the saw dust. More horsepower can cheat this problem, but if you are properly clearing the sawdust then there won't be build up that can jam and clog the cut and as such should not bog down the motor.

So yeah, get a good sharp blade, but make sure you have the proper tooth configuration and it is installed and tensioned properly and that it fits the saw you are working with. HP is nice, I have a 19" with 3 hp, but I wouldn't give up resawing just because I had a small saw. Before the big one I had a delta 14 inch with 3/4 hp and riser block and I could still resaw just fine up to about 10 inches.
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#22
(01-25-2018, 09:41 PM)handi Wrote: I do it all the time, and I am using the factory guides. 1/2” is easy, I can successfully slice 5-6” wood down to about 1/8” using a 3/4” Timberwolf blade. 6” wide boards do require removing the upper blade guard above the guard or it will grind on the upper wheel.
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I have a 14" Rockwell/Delta made in USA that I bought about 30 years ago..It came with a 1/2hp motor and it is still on the machine..I have sliced wood that just barely went under the top guide setting to a thickness of 3/32"...blade was 6ppi..3/8" wide...Make sure the saw is tuned properly and let the blade do the work at the feed rate it wants to cut..do not force the blade to cut by pushing too hard.....A truly sharp blade should "snag" your fingerprints at the tip of the teeth {just like a very sharp knife}...if it doesn't, your blade is not as sharp as it could be.
I have purchased new blades that can't pass that sharpness test. That's because the teeth were machine punched...not ground..
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