Need help tuning Stanley plane.
#29
(01-31-2018, 12:30 PM)omark Wrote: Making iron shorter will not solve this problem -- even if you grind 1 inch off, with the same chibreaker [and its setting] it will still stick the same!  If this is not obvious then take you time to familiarize further with construction of the plane ...

As "Joe Bailey" correctly mentioned it may be wrong chipbreaker (I would say older than the plane).
The difference I experienced is probably about 3/32 in, which is difficult to guess from picures.
If you have other planes you should be able to test other part quickly.

Thanks guys.  The length issue has been solved.  I got the plane from a well respected member here who I believe who does a lot of "plane flipping".  The plane came is such nice shape, I assumed it was also well aligned.  The repositioning of the frog solved most issues.  I received a diamond plate sharpening plate yesterday and will tune of the chip breaker and give it a test today if I can finish some other projects today.

This plane is the first of a few I need to get tuned up and running well.

I also have a #6, Bedrock 605 and a cheap #5 I would like to convert into a scrub plane.
A carpenter's house is never done.
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#30
(01-31-2018, 02:16 PM)photobug Wrote: Thanks guys.  The length issue has been solved.  I got the plane from a well respected member here who I believe who does a lot of "plane flipping".  The plane came is such nice shape, I assumed it was also well aligned.  The repositioning of the frog solved most issues.  I received a diamond plate sharpening plate yesterday and will tune of the chip breaker and give it a test today if I can finish some other projects today.

This plane is the first of a few I need to get tuned up and running well.

I also have a #6, Bedrock 605 and a cheap #5 I would like to convert into a scrub plane.
Your 605 is a jack plane same size as a Bailey #5. Good plane though.
Smile
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#31
I don’t think this has been mentioned so I’ll add checking the sole for a concave front to back variance that would disable the blade from contacting the wood surface. Set the plane on a cast iron top and look for light bearing through a potential void. Don’t expect the plane or the cast iron top to be dead nuts flat. That’s not reasonable....but a big variation seen between the two would set off some alarms for me. A 12” starrett rule would help too.


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#32
I have followed all the steps and got what looks like a well tuned plane.  

I have tried testing it in what I began this project.  I was trying to make some clamping cauls.  Eventually I did not like the way my plane was cutting the dimensional lumber and how it was so twisted to start with.  I bought a big stick of poplar and used my table saw to dimension it then my block plane to create bowed part of the cauls.  The block plane did a great job of planning 368 linear feet of lumber.  I could see the curls change from smooth clean curls to a slightly less smooth curls but still kept planning but with a slight bit more pressure needed.  

I don't feel this #4 plane is cutting as smoothly as the block plane.  I am wondering if this has anything to do with the nature of the planes.  One being a small plane that takes very thin shavings and the other a larger soled plane with a larger angle.  I think my planning skills could have something to do with not getting this plane to work as I'd like.  I am looking for suggestions on what kind of wood to use and how to set it up to test this planes performance.  I don't have a real benchtop and woodworking clamp set up yet so I will have to improvise a clamping setup.


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A carpenter's house is never done.
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#33
The #4 is simply not as sharp as your little block. Thats the difference.

Even if you honed the bevel the same way in both planes, I would suggest you have a problem on the back of the iron of not reaching the edge with your honing. Lookup the ruler trick.
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#34
If you feel the plane is set up right then it’s not sharp enough. Like Stokes said the blade isn’t sharp and it’s usually the back causing the problems. If the back of the blade isn’t flat then the bevel won’t get sharp.

The back of the blade should have an even polish across the back then the bevel will fall for not place.
Don
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#35
(02-04-2018, 10:13 AM)DFJarvie Wrote: If you feel the plane is set up right then it’s not sharp enough. Like Stokes said the blade isn’t sharp and it’s usually the back causing the problems. If the back of the blade isn’t flat then the bevel won’t get sharp.

The back of the blade should have an even polish across the back then the bevel will fall for not place.

I also would point out, your block plane is no longer sharp... It would have been necessary to sharpen the block plane probably 2-3 times during the work you just described...

When the shavings change, or you need more "pressure" or you need to advance the iron more for the same shaving... those are signs you're no longer sharp... Best to sharpen up before this.  
But that is why people advocate for micro bevels and ruler tricks... because it's literally a 30 second job with these methods.

Keep practicing and having fun.  Don't blame the planes.
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#36
(02-02-2018, 07:56 AM)Strokes77 Wrote: The #4 is simply not as sharp as your little block. Thats the difference.

Even if you honed the bevel the same way in both planes, I would suggest you have a problem on the back of the iron of not reaching the edge with your honing. Lookup the ruler trick.

I think this is the real trick.  Short of the using the ruler trick, which to me seems like a trick to get a micro bevel on the back of the plane, I think I have done everything right.  I think the difference is the way the two planes cut.  With the block plane I can make cuts with hand holding an unclamped board, while the larger planes need two hands on the plane and a solidly clamped board and technique I have yet to develop.

When planing the Poplar I know the blade was no longer sharp but was still cutting well.  I was in a groove and enjoying both the planing and getting the cauls, a long awaited project finished.


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