I was using my drill press to drill with a hole saw. It made it through the hole about half way before starting to smoke and burn.
I have had this hole saw kit for a while so this saw could be un-sharp. Is it a sharpness issue or a too fast speed issue?
The Hole Saw is 1 3/4 and the wood is 3/4 Baltic Birch Ply.
If I have to change the speed how do I get the belts to loosen on a Delta drill press?
After the second cut I had tried to pry the disk out of the hole saw and the hole spindle fell out. It seems like it can get pushed back into place easily but also prys out easily now. It does not seem like an easy fix, do I need to start taking it apart to get into the guts to repair this correctly?
The drill press is a Delta 17-900. There is a metal lever on the side of the area between the motor and the quill that seems like it would release the belts but I can't get it to budge.
Here is a photo of the shaft or quill whatever it's called.
01-29-2018, 05:37 PM (This post was last modified: 01-29-2018, 05:51 PM by fredhargis.)
When I do that I keep backing the hole saw out periodically to clear the saw dust. On larger ones I'll drill a couple of large holes near the edge of the cut to help it fall out...it doesn't look like you did that. If not, the saw dust packs in the kerf. Of course it could also be a few other things like a dull saw or to much speed. That's (sort of) the same DP I have. To adjust speeds you move the belts around on the 2 pulleys. Mine has a speed chart on the top of the lid that shows what speed you get with the various combinations. To adjust the belts there should be 2 locking bolts (one on each side) near the back of the DP that clamp the sliding rods which hold the motor. Loosen the locking bolts, slide the motor forward, and rearrange the belts. Then push the motor back (there's a lever that does this) and tighten the lockers. BTW, the drill bits on my hole saws are just held in by set screws...right above the saw body.
Oops, read your second post more carefully. That lever has to come loose to adjust everything. If it's frozen you have to use some combination of brute force and finesse to get it to loosen.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
I ended up just forcing the belts up a notch while rotating one of the belts. Until I can figure out why the lever won't move that is what I'll need to do. Just not sure which speeds for which bits.
I took off the hole saw and switched to a forstner bit. It made a nice smoke free hole, but at a cost of time and 100 times as much sawdust and shavings. I switched back to the hole saw for the last cut. I figured i have to sand at least 2 other burnt holes anyways. That and buy a new hole saw, unless i want to try and resharpen it.
(01-29-2018, 05:07 PM)photobug Wrote: I was using my drill press to drill with a hole saw. It made it through the hole about half way before starting to smoke and burn.
I have had this hole saw kit for a while so this saw could be un-sharp. Is it a sharpness issue or a too fast speed issue?
The Hole Saw is 1 3/4 and the wood is 3/4 Baltic Birch Ply.
If I have to change the speed how do I get the belts to loosen on a Delta drill press?
After the second cut I had tried to pry the disk out of the hole saw and the hole spindle fell out. It seems like it can get pushed back into place easily but also prys out easily now. It does not seem like an easy fix, do I need to start taking it apart to get into the guts to repair this correctly?
First the speed , use a slow speed with a hole saw. If the disk part is not what you need ,then first drill one or two 1/2" holes near the perimeter. This lets saw dust escape and the hole saw teeth stay cooler.
Flip the top up to get to the pulleys. There are two levers that you loosen ,one on each side of the pulley cover compartment. When these levers are loose you can move the outside pulley towards the motor shaft pulley to loosen it. Often squeezing the belt together will move the pulley.
There is a chart on the inside of the cover to show you the different speed configurations. I imagine you have 3 pulleys, the center is an idler to assist in motor belt tension.
After changing belts , adjust the idler pulley so the tension is correct. About 3/8" slack when pushing the belt should be about right. Now tighten the two locking levers you unlocked .
Not sure about your last problem? Are you saying the chuck fell out.. The "spindle " is a Morse taper. The chuck wedges into the Morse taper. Friction keeps the chuck in place. The quill and spindle are inter-changeable terms for the cylindrical part that goes up and down with the handle.
Make sure you completely open the jaws, clean any debris on the Taper and the mating surface in the chuck.
Push the chuck up as far as it will go on the Taper. Now place block of wood on the table and pull the Quill ( spindle) down hard. The chuck may stay in place now. If not ,raise the quill. Hold a block of wood on the open chuck and hit the wood with a mallet or hammer. If the jaws are not wide open you will destroy them when installing the chuck.
If the hole saw is dull it can be sharpened. I use a Dremel tool with a chain saw cylinder grinding wheel to sharpen the teeth. Usually takes 2 or 3 minutes on a 2-1/8" diameter hole saw. Generally 4 strokes back and forth with the stone against the gullet will do the job.
I ended up just forcing the belts up a notch while rotating one of the belts. Until I can figure out why the lever won't move that is what I'll need to do. Just not sure which speeds for which bits.
I took off the hole saw and switched to a forstner bit. It made a nice smoke free hole, but at a cost of time and 100 times as much sawdust and shavings. I switched back to the hole saw for the last cut. I figured i have to sand at least 2 other burnt holes anyways. That and buy a new hole saw, unless i want to try and resharpen it.
Did you loosen the locking bolts, they keep the motor from sliding back and forth...if they're tight you won't be able to move the motor.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
I ended up just forcing the belts up a notch while rotating one of the belts. Until I can figure out why the lever won't move that is what I'll need to do. Just not sure which speeds for which bits.
I took off the hole saw and switched to a forstner bit. It made a nice smoke free hole, but at a cost of time and 100 times as much sawdust and shavings. I switched back to the hole saw for the last cut. I figured i have to sand at least 2 other burnt holes anyways. That and buy a new hole saw, unless i want to try and resharpen it.
Keep a stiff brush handy and clean the gullets often as you work.
Reading this thread, it occurs to me that a hole saw should sharpen about as easily and using the same method as a band saw blade, as has been discussed on these pages in recent history. I will have to give that a try.
Ag
The arbor came out with the chuck. It's a chuck arbor with a morse taper (MT/JT type- Morse taper/Jacobs taper). I'd clean it up with steel wool- don't lube it, just rub it with a very slightly thin oiled cloth.
Give it a good wack, but not TOO hard when resetting it.
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