Another Rust Removal Question

[David Stone]

I guess a bunch of people got hit with rust after the recent temperature changes.  My TS, BS and jointer beds are completely covered.

Last weekend I tried using WD-40 with a new green Scotchbrite pad and my ROS.  (Are there different grits for scotchbrite? I only see green.)   Didn't get good results.  I've seen other posts and articles on the Internets suggesting sandpaper -- everything from 80, 22 to 400 grit.  I've used sandpaper for some spot rust issues, but it left some unsightly scratch marks.  

Is there a better solvent than WD-40?  I assume PB Blaster is basically the same stuff?  

Assuming I can't make any headway with the Scotchbrite pad, should I just use the sandpaper? What grit is recommended?  Will I have to live with scratched up beds?

[Rob Young]

There are different effective grits for non-woven abrasive, yes.
https://www.nortonabrasives.com/en-us/re...-abrasives

You can get coarser cutting types than the green "Scotchbright" (a trade name). Depending on who makes them, maroon is usually coarser.

You can work through a series of grits if the scratches bother you. They won't bother the machine performance if you can't catch a fingernail on them.

You can drop back to a coarser grit in a wet-dry sandpaper such as p180 or p150 and then work back up through the grits finishing with white non-woven which would be about the same as 0000 steel wool. I've never had to drop back below p220 and never bothered polishing cast iron beyond about the equivalent to p400 because the scratch pattern doesn't bother me.

WD-40 will lubricate just fine if used in sufficient quantity. I think you can get it in a bottle instead of aerosol if you need to apply it more liberally.

Once de-rusted, a coat of paste wax once in a while does wonders. You can spend a little on the wax (Johnson's Floor Wax) or a lot (Renaissance Wax). I choose to just use Johnson's Floor Wax (the yellow can with red stripes) and just reapply twice a year. My machines don't see heavy use so YMMV.

[David Stone]

Thanks.  I do use paste wax as part of my prevention regimen, but I wasn't very good to my tools this year.

[Admiral]

Thanks.  I do use paste wax as part of my prevention regimen, but I wasn't very good to my tools this year.

Use a square or rectangular orbital (not RAS) sander with maroon scotchbrite underneath it.  I lube derusting with windex; works for me and less smelly.

[DaveParkis]

I suggest the Sand flex blocks. I've used them on some pretty badly rusted tables and am very happy with their performance. If you want to stay with Scotchbrite pads, you might try looking for some more aggressive grits at an auto body supply store. The green ones are pretty nch useless for a job like this. One model of Scotchbrite pads is 7440. It's a brown/Grey 6 x 9 pad and is very aggressive. I use them for planes. They are pricey, though.

[Stwood_]

I use a 5" ROS with 220 grit, along with WD-40.
Then, auto wax mixed in with heated bees wax, paraffin wax, and a dab of BLO, all heated and blended together. Let that mixture cool in a large jar lid. Then rub it on and wipe off like polish.

[fredhargis]

A few years ago I found a place that sold non woven belts for belt sanders. I bought a couple for my 3x21 and thy really worked well to clean up light rust quickly. Damned if I can find the link I bookmarked, wish I could because I could use a couple more.

[oarlock]

Non-Woven Belt sander belts:  MSC, KBC Tools, Mc Master-Carr.  I have used them quite a bit to clean up saw plates and the like.  IRRC they are around $15.00/item but they sure work well.

[daddo]

I've let it soak in oil overnight then I use a plastic scraper and a damp rag with soapy water or 409 to clean up, air dry, then a good sanding with 100 grit.  I don't mind the swirls.

[cvillewood]

Scrape it with a razor then do this:
https://youtu.be/-uMrVusnaEg