Another big piece
#11
Here is another maple piece I just completed. This is the one my wife wanted a year ago that I used to justify my new lathe.

It's 13" diameter and 24" tall without the plug in the top. The finish is 12 coats of Deft gloss lacquer, sanded every 3 coats and polished with Yorkshire Grit after the last one.


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We do segmented turning, not because it is easy, but because it is hard.
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#12
Very Nice looking vase! what did you use to color this one?
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#13
(02-16-2018, 08:03 AM)SceneryMaker Wrote: Here is another maple piece I just completed.  This is the one my wife wanted a year ago that I used to justify my new lathe.

It's 13" diameter and 24" tall without the plug in the top.  The finish is 12 coats of Deft gloss lacquer, sanded every 3 coats and polished with Yorkshire Grit after the last one.

The new lathe did you proud,that is absolutely beautiful and I am sure your wife is glad you got that new lathe.Now she will want more.Very nice turning on your part.


Mel
ABC(Anything But Crapsman)club member
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#14
(02-16-2018, 08:17 AM)Splinterz25 Wrote: what did you use to color this one?

Aqua Green Artisan Premium Coloring Dye from Craft Supplies. Sure looks blue, doesn't it.

(https://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p/50/...ring-Dye?1)
We do segmented turning, not because it is easy, but because it is hard.
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#15
That is stunning.  Do you apply the dye after the final turning/sanding?  How deep does the dye penetrate?    Also thanks for the tutorial on lacquer.  I tried it on a recent bowl, I won't pretend the results look as good as yours, but they were considerably better than previous attempts.
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#16
Blue, green, whatever. It's beautiful!
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#17
Very Nice ! 
Cool
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#18
Those dyes look good much easier to use than the ones I bought, a set of Aniline Dye 5 Color Kit - Wood Stain Powder you can mix w/ water or Alcohol.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BAK...UTF8&psc=1
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#19
(02-16-2018, 09:29 AM)crokett™ Wrote: Do you apply the dye after the final turning/sanding?  How deep does the dye penetrate?

After I found the dye soaking into the grain of the wood unevenly, causing most segments to be nearly black on one side, I applied a coat of Deft lacquer sanding sealer to bare wood after sanding. I flooded the sealer on and quickly wiped it off again because I wanted the most sealer where it soaked in the fastest. When it dried, I exposed the surface wood fibers with 00 steel wool. The dye then went on mush more evenly.

To remove the dye that soaked in too much, I tried sanding but that felt like it was going to take forever. For curiosity, I scratched the bad surface with a pocket knife to get an idea how far I had to go, which caused me to give up sanding. I ended up using a light sheer scrape with a bowl gouge to take off the wood, then started over on sanding up to 400 grit.

Sanding sealer, steel wool, dye, steel wool, lacquer, steel wool, lacquer, steel wool, lacquer, steel wool, Yorkshire Grit, polish with a clean tee shirt, picture.

I'm beginning to see why this procedure isn't all that popular.
We do segmented turning, not because it is easy, but because it is hard.
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#20
Thanks for explaining the finishing. After seeing some Jimmy Clewes videos I have been fooling with dyes. I have one of these on my lists.
Don
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