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02-24-2018, 02:08 PM
(This post was last modified: 02-24-2018, 02:29 PM by Handplanesandmore.)
(02-23-2018, 01:09 PM)®smpr_fi_mac® Wrote: I have a two boxes in my shop that I applied three coats of BLO to in mid December. They *still* stink of BLO. That's with the lids off to allow for air movement. How long should this last? I'm aware that BLO should be fully cured in a few days, so I'm confused.
If I put a sealing coat of shellac over them, will that stop the outgassing?
Did you wait for the first coat to dry before applying the second, and the second coat dry before applying the third coat,
etc.? And did you thin the BLO?
If your answers were no to both questions, you are seeing what you see.
I apply finish inside and out always but follow the above instructions and have had little issues with smell. But BLO does take longer than others for its smell to go away.
Simon
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(02-24-2018, 02:08 PM)Handplanesandmore Wrote: Did you wait for the first coat to dry before applying the second, and the second coat dry before applying the third coat,
etc.? And did you thin the BLO?
If your answers were no to both questions, you are seeing what you see.
I apply finish inside and out always but follow the above instructions and have had little issues with smell. But BLO does take longer than others for its smell to go away.
My experience as well. Thin the first 50:50 with MS, might even warm it, as I do. Chemical reactions, by and large, occur faster when it's warm, and that includes polymerization of the oil. Second is a wipe on after 5 days or so, wipe off before it gels. Keep the surrounding temperature elevated, if possible.
Better to follow the leader than the pack. Less to step in.
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(02-24-2018, 12:29 PM)joespehar Wrote: That special Zinnser unwaxed shellac that's supposed to last for at least a year: it really does.
Yeah, I've heard that, but by the time that came out I was already deep into my shellac flake collection (I keep them in the fridge) and have gotten used to just making up a fresh batch as needed, and in the color that is appropriate for the wood as well. I love shellac as a finish.
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Thanks, folks. I appreciate the advice.
I'll put it to use on my next boxes. And I think I'll give shellac a try. I've watched lots of tutorials on YouTube but haven't thought of a use for *me*. Now I have one.
Semper fi,
Brad
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A finish that will not dry is the pits and I do not know how to help the originator of this post out except to say wait for it to dry, however long it takes. Then seal it with, I would use Seal Coat Shellac. It is a sanding sealer and can be left alone since it is on the inside or a top coat can be applied. It also will adherer to another topcoat, which is why I an recommending it.
I like to use two coats of Seal Coat. It is guaranteed under any poly top coat, not all sand sealers are. My favorite finish for drawers is: first coat of Seal Coat wait 15 minutes and sand with 320, apply second coat and wait 1 hour, then sand with 320. Apply a top coat of Minwax Antique Oil. It can be handled in a couple of hours, better left over night, 24 hours in between coats. I have never had antique oil not dry, I have had a more failures of wipe on poly than I care to admit, it can remaining tacky for days.
I apply Seal coat with the best brush I can get my hands on, mine is a Badger. I use that brush only for Shellac, I have never been able to get all of the shellac out of it and it will dry as hard as a rock. Don't worry just put it in denatured alcohol and it will be ready to go in about 15 minutes.
One of the hardest things to get off your hands is shellac, Denatured alcohol doesn't work and I have never tried Everclear. I can think of to many other uses for Everclear to even try it. But any brand of hand sanitizer works great and it is gone immediately.
I like to use Nitrile gloves, and I cut a piece of handy wipes to suit for applying, wipe it down with Antique oil. Just get a wet coat on, don't need to much, and then just blot off the extra with a paper towel no waiting. I spread out the handy wipe and towel to dry so I don't run the risk of spontaneous combustion. Or better yet just put them out doors helps get rid of the finish smell. and take off the gloves and you are done with clean up. If you live 15 miles away from the nearest stop light then removing the gloves with a little care so they can be reused is not a bad idea. But otherwise they are cheap.
My favorite finish for Walnut and Cherry, both inside and out is Minwax Antique oil. I think it has a lot of BLO in it and it really give the walnut the dark walnut look and turns Cherry red. The only draw back it is take a least 5 coats, with a 24 hour dry time in between coats, to get there, I prefer 7 coats.
This is not the forum for finishing so let me know if you are interested and I will tell you how I do it. Not even a 12 year old child with no experience can screw up the finish.
Tom
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(03-03-2018, 05:44 PM)tablesawtom Wrote: My favorite finish for Walnut and Cherry, both inside and out is Minwax Antique oil. I think it has a lot of BLO in it and it really give the walnut the dark walnut look and turns Cherry red. The only draw back it is take a least 5 coats, with a 24 hour dry time in between coats, to get there, I prefer 7 coats.
This is not the forum for finishing so let me know if you are interested and I will tell you how I do it. Not even a 12 year old child with no experience can screw up the finish.
Tom
Please do, Tom.
I have a can of Minwax Ant oil gifted to me but sitting idle as I have always been using BLO.
Simon
