Hole Saws - What are the best ones?
#11
Last few days, I've been making a small mobile stand for clamps - needed to drill saw holes for large dowels (1+ inches) - so I used my Blu-mol kit (2 sizes - first pic below) - this is my third set of hole saws over decades and am always frustrated, i.e. wood burns, tearout, & impossible to remove the wood plug w/o prying w/ a screwdriver! 
No

There must be 'hole saw kits' that do a decent job w/o the objections above - any suggestions?  I saw this Sypder kit on Amazon (2nd pic) that states there is a 'release button' which I'd love to use - BUT, any comments, purchase suggestions, etc.  Thanks - Dave
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Piedmont North Carolina
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#12
I have and use Bosch's power change set. Made for wood, not metal. PC11PCM set #.
Everything snaps on. Makes it easy to get that wood plug out of the cutter.
Highly recommended

NOT made for metal.
Steve

Missouri






 
The Revos apparently are designed to clamp railroad ties and pull together horrifically prepared joints
WaterlooMark 02/9/2020








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#13
I'm a believer in Lennox.
Credo Elvem ipsum etiam vivere
Non impediti ratione cogitationis
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#14
The biggest downfall of using a holesaw is there's no real place for the sawdust to go. This is why you get burning and stuck plugs. If possible, either use compressed air or a vacuum to remove the dust several times while drilling the hole. Blu-mol is a good brand, I have several. If you are drilling a through hole, such as in a counter, first, score the surface with the holesaw, the I prefer to take a 1/2" paddle bit and drill 2 or 3 holes around the perimeter, just touching the outer edges of the scored line. This gives the sawdust a place to go. It's amazing how well it works.
I no longer build museums but don't want to change my name. My new job is a lot less stressful. Life is much better.

Garry
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#15
(02-25-2018, 07:37 PM)giradman Wrote: Last few days, I've been making a small mobile stand for clamps - needed to drill saw holes for large dowels (1+ inches) - so I used my Blu-mol kit (2 sizes - first pic below) - this is my third set of hole saws over decades and am always frustrated, i.e. wood burns, tearout, & impossible to remove the wood plug w/o prying w/ a screwdriver! 
No

The problem you are having is a result of improper use of the hole saw.  The only reason I know this is, I asked a similar question myself about a month ago.  

To avoid burned holes and stuck plugs.  You need to drill relief holes 1 or 2 inside the circle and use a slower drill speed.  A better quality holesaw my help but you will still need to do it right to get good results.  Use a backer board to help prevent tearout.

Gary beat me to it.
A carpenter's house is never done.
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#16
Thanks Guys for the comments - half way through drilling these saw holes, I remembered some previous posts - SO, attached a backer board and drilled some saw dust relief holes, as suggested, and got much better results - believe that Blu-mol is a decent brand - in the future, I'll do some scoring first and drill relief holes, use a slower speed, and see what my results may be - just don't use these hole saws much (and only for wood) - thanks again - Dave
Smile
Piedmont North Carolina
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#17
I buy carbide tipped hole saws and when you use them you should use the slowest speed you can.
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#18
(02-25-2018, 08:05 PM)Admiral Wrote: I'm a believer in Lennox.

The problem with the small holes is that it is a person to get the blanks extricated.  

Rather use a 1/8" diameter router bit and a drilled pattern to cut the holes.  Plunge into the center and then work your way around.  It will leave a much smoother edge and you can adjust the size easily by changing the pattern hold.  And adjustable hole bit can be used for that purpose.  

Alternatively a forstner bit does a good job but leaves a mountain of chips.
No animals were injured or killed in the production of this post.
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#19
As mentioned above, clearance holes make a huge difference.
I would add, if you are making wheels-that is, you want to keep the center portion-drill the clearance holes on the outside of the cut, or cut right at the edge of the board, to give the chips a place to get out.
I always use bi-metal hole saws, and regularly use them in steel, up to 1/2" thick-slow, with oil, but it doesn't seem to hurt the holesaw, at all.
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#20
I" ill use forstner bit with a plunge from both sides


Glad its my shop I am responsible for - I only have to make me happy.

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