Full Blind DTs
#11
I have done these DTs years ago and found that they were actually not that hard to do. Decided to give it another try on a small box I am making. I want clean corners on this box and I could have simply done a splined miter, but whats the fun in that. Ron B recently sent me a new mallet so I am giving it a good run on these DTs. 

Wood is nice straight grained QS walnut. First task is to mark the lines at the exact thickness of the boards. Only the inside and edges gets marked. No marks on the outside. Then rabbets are cut. I used the table saw, then cleaned them up with a router plane. These are cut at 1/4 to 1/3 of the thickness in from the ends. 

   

Then mark the pin board leaving a half pin at the end for miters. You pretty much have to start with the pins so the tails can be marked. Not sure that it could be done tail first. 

   

I was going back and forth with a Wenzelof and LN saw. Actually seem to prefer the LN saw. Waste gets chopped out as normal. The ends gets cut at 45 deg to form miters. 

   

Pin boards will need the edge mitered which I will cover as well as marking and cutting the tail boards on the next installment.

   

I was using a LN 3/4" chisel for most of the chopping and was finding the edge crumbling after each end (3 sockets). It was easy to resharpen, but a little concerning. I thought it would hold up a little better. Going to try a steeper angle on them. 

I am really digging the new mallet. The details in the handle allow me to register to the same position easily. The flat end keeps it on the bench and it is not easy to tip it over.
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#12
I've always wanted to try this ever since I saw St. Roy do some on one of his shows. Looking forward to your progress Scoony!
Tim
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#13
Secret Mitre Joints do look nice when done..
Cool 
   
Made a box last year..
   
But..mine didn't use dovetails...
Confused  
   
But I used finger joint style
Show me a picture, I'll build a project from that
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#14
Your's is a good cook-up, Scoony. Looking forward to it.

Your choice of corner connection is interesting. Joint exposure is a design philosophy in itself. Show the joint? Don't show? How much to expose? When to show, and when to conceal? Why do what was done? With the choice, a social style and artistic consideration is carried along.
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#15
(03-03-2018, 11:28 AM)hbmcc Wrote: Your's is a good cook-up, Scoony. Looking forward to it.

Your choice of corner connection is interesting. Joint exposure is a design philosophy in itself. Show the joint? Don't show? How much to expose? When to show, and when to conceal? Why do what was done? With the choice, a social style and artistic consideration is carried along.

Joint choice in history and region is interesting. I have seen a lot of antique pieces here in Kentucky where they use Half blind DTs in a unique way. The front panel shows no dovetails. the sides show half blind DTs at the front edge only. The rear half blind DTs are only seen from the rear. I made a KY style sugar chest/blanket chest in this manner.

Nice clean front
[Image: IMG_00308.JPG]

Excuse the sideways picture, but notice that DTs are only seen at the front edge and not the rear.
[Image: IMG_003613.JPG]

The sizing of the back panel was tricky and took some time to ensure a square case. 

[Image: IMG_003310.JPG]

I have to travel to TX this coming week (work related) and will resume the full blind DTs next weekend. I will be pulling out my secret weapon for these.
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#16
(03-03-2018, 04:26 PM)Scoony Wrote: Joint choice in history and region is interesting. I have seen a lot of antique pieces here in Kentucky where they use Half blind DTs in a unique way. The front panel shows no dovetails. the sides show half blind DTs at the front edge only. The rear half blind DTs are only seen from the rear. I made a KY style sugar chest/blanket chest in this manner.
That sugar chest is a beauty. Very nice proportion and great (handrubbed?) finish. Do you remember the dimensions for your chest and drawers?

Simon
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#17
Roughly 30" wide, 14" deep on the upper section, The base is almost 12" and the upper section is 19" tall. That piece was sold several years ado, so I am basing this on one that I made for myself that was close in size. Often, I let the wood decide the final measurements as long as it remains within the parameters.
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#18
Back from Texas (Grapevine) and had the day to goof off in the shop. Sold my Table saw today. Got it sold pretty fast on Facebook. 

Pulled out and dusted off the mighty miter jack. I made this many years ago and onle use it once in a while, but it is great for tuning miter joints.

   

As an alternate, I took a piece of 2x6 construction pine, surfaced it and cut the end at a 45 deg angle. 

   

There was a question a while back on the utility of a work surface behind a moxon type vice. I made this bench top bench a long time ago and use it from time to time.  Raises up the work piece for more comfortable working height.

   

They fit, now I just need to tune up the miters now.  

   
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#19
I am impressed Sir.  Thanks for posting this.  Can't wait to see the finished project.
That Sugar chest is incredible.  I would be so thrilled to create something like that.
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#20
Nice work.

But have to ask, why not just use a spline and save a whoooole bunch of time?
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