air line from basement to garage
#11
the back wall of our garage is above one of the walls in my shop.  I'm thinking about putting a compressor in the shop and running a line up to the garage.

I suppose if I make it so that water can't be trapped, the material I use isn't critical.  I'm thinking that copper might be best though.  Any thoughts?
Reply
#12
Copper is easy. My current shop/garage is done in copper. I think I'll go PEX in my new shop space though.
Rocket Science is more fun when you actually have rockets. 

"The Constitution is not an instrument for the government to restrain the people, it is an instrument for the people to restrain the government." -- Patrick Henry
Reply
#13
(03-06-2018, 10:38 AM)EricU Wrote: the back wall of our garage is above one of the walls in my shop.  I'm thinking about putting a compressor in the shop and running a line up to the garage.

I suppose if I make it so that water can't be trapped, the material I use isn't critical.  I'm thinking that copper might be best though.  Any thoughts?

I ran 3/8" copper to the garage and placed a regulator in the garage.   The 3/8" works good for airing up tires, impact wrenches (depending on size) and paint spraying.   I run 125 psi to the garage.  Never had a water issue but it does drain back and I relieve air pressure on that line with the quick disconnect .    This blows the pressure in the line back to clear  it .     Your cfm need will determine the line size.   Roly
Reply
#14
I read the thread title and thought -

Why not just take the train?


Big Grin
Know Guns. Know Security. Know Freedom - - - No Guns. No Security. No Freedom

Guns are supposed to be dangerous. If yours is not dangerous you need to take it to a gunsmith and have it repaired.
Reply
#15
You should check building codes in your area.  There are some plastic pipes that are rated to 180 psi--but don't use the PVC pipe that you can get at Home Depot, it will get brittle as it ages.  Use something like this:

https://www.aetnaplastics.com/products/d...pingSystem

Retailers of air compressors should be able to direct you to appropriate piping.

This chart (scroll down to the bottom and click the "compressed air tables" link) shows the maximum pressure for copper pipe.

https://www.copper.org/applications/plum...recom.html

In our factory we ran copper pipe to handle the welding gas (argon) which is low pressure; but galvanized iron pipe for our compressed air system.  

You need to check the local codes.

This company lists piping (in Pennsylvania):
http://tayloraircenter.com/products/air-...ories.html

Taylor Air Center
4389 Commerce Drive
Whitehall, PA 18052 
9141
No animals were injured or killed in the production of this post.
Reply
#16
I put my larger compressor into my crawl space up against the garage.  I want to plumb from it around the garage with a outlet in the front of my garage for repair work outside requiring pneumatic tools.

I am thinking of using pex, but have to figure out the logistics of getting it out of the crawlspace, how to drain the tanks and lines in the crawl space, how to turn it off and on all without crawling down there each time.
A carpenter's house is never done.
Reply
#17
Watch for sales and air hose is cheap.
Blackhat

Bad experiences come from poor decisions. So do good stories. 


Reply
#18
I've got three 50' 3/8" cheapie $10.00 hoses up in the attic of my shop, using those as air drops that are above my work benches.
Easy and cheap. They've been up there since 2006 now. If one blows, I'll just replace it.
Steve

Missouri






 
The Revos apparently are designed to clamp railroad ties and pull together horrifically prepared joints
WaterlooMark 02/9/2020








Reply
#19
I also used 3/8" plastic air hose to run from the compressor in the garage down into my basement shop.  It made sense to me to put the noisy compressor out there rather than down in my shop.  Anyway, that was at least 6 or 7 years ago.  The line is under pressure constantly; no problems with durability or water yet.  

John
Reply
#20
Ridgid 1/2" ID copper and 6% silver brazing would make a permanent and safe line. A 12" drip leg with a ball ***** valve before going up would allow you to drain the line.
Reply


Forum Jump:


Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)

Product Recommendations

Here are some supplies and tools we find essential in our everyday work around the shop. We may receive a commission from sales referred by our links; however, we have carefully selected these products for their usefulness and quality.