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Folks:
I love the shape of Ginko leaves, and want to make coffee tables in their shape. I decided to prototype them first in pine, and they look great. However, I had trouble glueing up the top in a fan shape made with wedges (tapering from 4" to 1/2" over a length of 24") - and decided to use pocket screws on the bottom side of the top to act as clamps. After the glue dried, I took out the screws, but it leaves the holes at the bottom. Since they can't be seen, it's not a big deal to use this method, but I would prefer not having them when I make the "real" coffee tables with nicer wood. Any ideas on how to clamp them without the pieces sliding around? If I make a fan shaped jig, they tend to want to slip out at the open end. I guess I could make a fan shaped jig that is closed on all 3 sides? Seems like a lot of work, and perhaps worth it, but wanted to know if there are any other bright ideas out there for this?
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(03-23-2018, 03:30 PM)Zalsa Wrote: Any ideas on how to clamp them without the pieces sliding around? If I make a fan shaped jig, they tend to want to slip out at the open end. I guess I could make a fan shaped jig that is closed on all 3 sides? Seems like a lot of work, and perhaps worth it, but wanted to know if there are any other bright ideas out there for this?
Same as any glue-up, more than two pieces at a time isn't a good idea, Simplifies your jig a lot. But the large ends, if cut a tad over final dimension, might benefit from pinch dogs. like 'em for angled glue-ups. https://www.theenglishwoodworker.com/pin...nts-clamp/
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Something like this, only the angle will be different.
![[Image: clamping.jpg?timestamp=1463416319]](https://images.woodmagazine.mdpcdn.com/sites/default/files/styles/article_hero__1350x900/public/image/migrated//wood/images/2010/03/clamping.jpg?timestamp=1463416319)
could you cut your pieces longer and just use one pocket hole on each end, to keep alignment while gluing. Even one end may be enough. Just trim the ends past the pocket hole.
Like Michael wrote, one glue joint at a time.
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(03-24-2018, 08:27 PM)Cecil Wrote: Something like this, only the angle will be different.
could you cut your pieces longer and just use one pocket hole on each end, to keep alignment while gluing. Even one end may be enough. Just trim the ends past the pocket hole.
Like Michael wrote, one glue joint at a time. Cecil:
I like the idea of the single pocket hole at the wide end that gets sacrificed - and then I can use the cauls to close up the narrow ends. Thanks!
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03-25-2018, 09:49 AM
(This post was last modified: 03-25-2018, 09:51 AM by Alan S.)
As long as you cut the final curve after glueup, your pieces can be simple pie pieces with straight sides. Make a jig for gluing up as many as you want at each stage by screwing down straight fences at the appropriate angle to a piece of plywood. (Find the angle by putting the pieces in place, and screwing down the fence alongside.) Your jig should not go all the way to the point.
Pushing the pie pieces between these will clamp them together. To do so, drill a hole for a peg just outside the extent of each pie piece, and use a wedge between the peg and piece to tighten it in. Wax or finish the jig to prevent sticking.
Because the fences are simply screwed on, you can easily reconfigure the jig for later stages of glueup when you put together larger angled pieces.
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Use dowels or Domino’s (not biscuits as they will slide) then clamp with wedges and they will not move or slide on you. I’ve done it many times and works well. Be sure if you have to trim to final size that the dowels or dominoes are not in a position where they will be cut into and then show on the side.
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Wedges are one answer to wedge gluing!
You know the size and shape of the final piece, make a clamp jig with cleats around the shape perimeter. Using two opposing wedges in several locations around the cleats will allow you to apply the pressure needed, exactly where needed. And you can control the force applied gradually, tapping each pair of wedges in order until everything is secure.
Strap clamps might also be a good solution. Bessey’s Strap Clamp draws both sides of the strap evenly allowing for odd shapes quite well.
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Hide glue and rub joint. Well jointed clean edges and away you go.
Alternately, make a platform with cleats. Glue up on platform (wax paper or something to stop sticking to platform) and use opposing wedges to clamp.
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(03-23-2018, 03:30 PM)Zalsa Wrote: After the glue dried, I took out the screws, but it leaves the holes at the bottom. Since they can't be seen, it's not a big deal to use this method, but I would prefer not having them when I make the "real" coffee tables with nicer wood.
Kreg (and others, I think) sells plugs to hide pocket holes in the finished piece.
https://www.kregtool.com/about-us/news/k...ource=1669
If you want a perfect match, I see that now Kreg is making a special bit that you can purchase to cut your own plugs. You could cut plugs from the same material you used to make there tables.
Nice tables, by the way. Like you, I have always loved Ginko leaves and you nailed them with your table design.
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