Roughing inside of bowl
#9
I picked up a couple scrape pieces from local sawmill to practice on. The blank is 4" thick. I cut it round on the bandsaw to 8" dia. I cut a tenon, which was scarf enough due to all the catches. I mounted my nova expanding jaws in the tenon and mounted it on my jet midi. Now things get really scary. As soon as I touch the bowl gouge to th blank I get catches. Severe enough that twice the tool rest was driven down to the base of the tool holder. This is wet wood. It didn't matter if I tried center out or out to center. The catches happen on just about every attempt. I'm running at 850. I looked at a couple of videos and pdf's. I think I have the gouge presentation all wrong. I even tried my square carbide presented straight in. That cut but broke the corner off the insert. I turned a Purple Heart blank to a small dish years ago and don't recall this much trouble. Please help. Thank you
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#10
Maybe this will help
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jOvF5f1phhY
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#11
(04-01-2018, 06:40 PM)whatline Wrote: I picked up a couple scrape pieces from local sawmill to practice on. The blank is 4" thick. I cut it round on the bandsaw to 8" dia. I cut a tenon, which  was scarf enough due to all the catches. I mounted my nova expanding jaws in the tenon and mounted it on my jet midi. Now things get really scary. As soon as I touch the bowl gouge to th blank I get catches. Severe enough that twice the tool rest was driven down to the base of the tool holder. This is wet wood. It didn't matter if I tried center out or out to center. The catches happen on just about every attempt. I'm running at 850. I looked at a couple of videos and pdf's. I think I have the gouge presentation all wrong. I even tried my square carbide presented straight in. That cut but broke the corner off the insert. I turned a Purple Heart blank to a small dish years ago and don't recall this much trouble. Please help. Thank you

Don't use a spindle gouge, for cutting out the inside of a bowl.

And for goodness sakes, watch and learn how to do it on YouTube. There are several good video's. Search "bowl, no catch, lathe" etc.

I learned a lot from Brendan Stemp. Good luck.
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#12
Here are two YouTube videos with Lyle Jamieson who came to my house three times and shown me the same way and I went from just below OK to Great now on my tool control, tool presentation, and using the bevel correctly.






And this one





Also Jimmy Clewes came to my house to show us vets how to do it almost the exact same way Lyle does


As of this time I am not teaching vets to turn. Also please do not send any items to me without prior notification.  Thank You Everyone.

It is always the right time, to do the right thing.
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#13
Here are the other two videos I was trying to post but could only do three at a time

Also Jimmy Clewes on Lathe speeds too






If you look both of them up on YouTube and also Rudy Lopez all three of them will give you much needed turning techniques.




Hope this helps you or anyone else.
As of this time I am not teaching vets to turn. Also please do not send any items to me without prior notification.  Thank You Everyone.

It is always the right time, to do the right thing.
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#14
(04-01-2018, 06:40 PM)whatline Wrote: I picked up a couple scrape pieces from local sawmill to practice on. The blank is 4" thick. I cut it round on the bandsaw to 8" dia. I cut a tenon, which  was scarf enough due to all the catches. I mounted my nova expanding jaws in the tenon and mounted it on my jet midi. Now things get really scary. As soon as I touch the bowl gouge to th blank I get catches. Severe enough that twice the tool rest was driven down to the base of the tool holder. This is wet wood. It didn't matter if I tried center out or out to center. The catches happen on just about every attempt. I'm running at 850. I looked at a couple of videos and pdf's. I think I have the gouge presentation all wrong. I even tried my square carbide presented straight in. That cut but broke the corner off the insert. I turned a Purple Heart blank to a small dish years ago and don't recall this much trouble. Please help. Thank you

Your objective is to cut across the grain and peel down, so start the gouge in either a ) outside or ( inside orientation.  Stay above the centerline with the engaged portion of the tool when cutting outside a bowl, below when working inside.  That way the tool will want to self-eject as you reduce the clearance angle to peel outside, or press against the surface cutting inward inside - Physics says it wants to move to the greater rotational energy.  

So start out with the toolrest as close as you can get to the surface for best mechanical advantage to you, use an overhand grip to anchor the tool firmly to the rest so it won't bump, and swing to enter, transitioning to push to peel.  Good advice for ANY tool, though you still have to remember to cut and peel down hill/grain for best surface.  

I'm a belt/suspenders kind of guy, so you'll find me using the tailstock until the bowl is all but complete, at its best balance and lowest mass.  Easy enough to leave a pillar inside when using pin chuck or jaws, or even the screw center.  Suggest you do the same, so you won't be as prone to dismounts or breakoffs, even if you get careless, and "catch."
Better to follow the leader than the pack. Less to step in.
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#15
If you have a local turning club, that's the place to turn to.  See what I did there 
Big Grin

Seriously though, hands on learning is the best way to figure out turning.  I had a guy from Marc Adams School give a me a two hour lesson one evening and I got the basics down quick.  From there, videos help with new techniques.

Learn to sharpen those tools too!

Good luck!
"This is our chance, this our lives, this is our planet we're standing on. Use your choice, use your voice, you can save our tomorrows now." - eV
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#16
Thanks all. I knew I could find help here. I'll give them a whirl this weekend. A local club does exists. About 40 minutes away. They meet 7pm once a month. Thing is my day starts 6:00 in the office. That's just too long of a day.
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