Blank Prep Process Question
#11
I’m still processing a silver maple tree I received huge pieces of, and it was 96 degrees here today so doing as much as I can as quickly as I can (the supply spans 16’ long at this point - 5’ shorter than when I started). The day job limits the time I can spend, so large pieces are living under a tarp until I can get to them - already some meaningful checking.

Once I cut pieces to manageable size with chainsaw, then into rounds on the bandsaw, I seal the end grain with Anchorseal and place them in paper bags surrounded by shavings until I can eventually get to roughing them into a bowl or vessel. Once roughed out, they go back in a paper bag with shavings from the roughing process. Curious whether there is something else or different I should be doing.

This is all new (I’ve never gotten a supply I couldn’t process in a weekend), so apologies if this is overly basic, but appreciate any input to help make sure I maximize the haul and limit the loss.

Thanks,
John
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#12
With temperaures in the nineties whats the humidity level? Placing logs under a tarp without plenty of air circulation might cook the wood if have a lot of direct sunlight even if end sealed. Want to move to shady area.

I don't know where you live but advise looking at fig. 14-1 Climate index for decay hazard. Higer numbers indicate greater decay hazard.

https://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/fplgt...ter_14.pdf

Depending upon where you live, temps & humidity, and moisture content you can cause stains & molds to grow if improperly stored.

Certain times of the year will only end seal logs and store logs normally cut into 12 to 18 inches and end seal until can process them into turning blanks stored in my woodshed. When processing logs cut away anything see like limbs or damaged wood. Simply cut log longr than need even if split to get rid of pith if required. To split or not depends on diameter of logs. Based upon where I live only use plastic bags to cover wood while turning and taking a break or over night. Someone in an arid region can get away using plastic bag.

I don't always use paper bags or cardbord boxes with chips due to staining & mold growth after rough turning. I don't even try to end seal end grain after rough turning, simply allow them to air dry on shelves or floor at back of my shop.

You have to come up with you own plan based upon where you live based upon: temerature & humidity, size of logs ( diameter & length) dividing wood to process into bowl, hollow forms or spindle blanks. Already mention my split or not to split procedure cutting away defects as you process your logs.
Bill
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#13
(04-09-2018, 10:13 PM)jcredding Wrote: I’m still processing a silver maple tree I received huge pieces of, and it was 96 degrees here today so doing as much as I can as quickly as I can (the supply spans 16’ long at this point - 5’ shorter than when I started).  The day job limits the time I can spend, so large pieces are living under a tarp until I can get to them - already some meaningful checking.

Once I cut pieces to manageable size with chainsaw, then into rounds on the bandsaw, I seal the end grain with Anchorseal and place them in paper bags surrounded by shavings until I can eventually get to roughing them into a bowl or vessel.  Once roughed out, they go back in a paper bag with shavings from the roughing process.  Curious whether there is something else or different I should be doing.
End checks are self-limiting, which is why previous advice was given to harvest and rough as time is available.   End checks will run in to the point where the interior moisture replacement rate overcomes the loss and shrink through the endgrain.  What you do when you reduce length without roughing is to create two fresh surfaces which are now subject to end checking rather than creating one fresh surface subject to the same on the log.  This is not a good practice.
Better to follow the leader than the pack. Less to step in.
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#14
Michael Mouse what you say is true to a certain degree but little misleading. End sealing those fresh surfaces will slow down the drying process which is what we want! No end sealing isn't always foolproof!

End checking left on its own can spoil that log for its intended purpose! No one can tell how far into a log that end checking has progressed unless log splits or you find out when start turning.

Having a plan procedure in your mind on how to process logs into turning blanks can and will change with every load you harvest. Time to do it properly is always an issue like OP stated. Leaving a 11' foot log sealed and 5' assorted blanks sealed until can rough turn not really any problem. Storing can be an issue if don't have air circulation off the ground, out of the weather etc can do lot of harm causing drying defects whether end sealed or not.

Harvest lot of wood from trees already on the ground and my goal is to cut to lenghts can pick up and load onto my pick-up. I do try to cut away anything cannot turn before loading into my pick-up. Days of throwing a 16' log onto bed of my truck long gone! So if all get to do is split and or just end seal and stack my logs in my wood shed I am happy. If know logs been laying around for month or two might just cut to length and split rough out round with chain saw and start rough turning. So time and quanity very important too!
Bill
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#15
(04-10-2018, 10:51 AM)Wildwood Wrote: Michael Mouse what you say is true to a certain degree but little misleading.  End sealing those fresh surfaces will slow down the drying process which is what we want!  No end sealing isn't always foolproof!

End checking left on its own can spoil that log for its intended purpose!  No one can tell how far into a log that end checking has progressed unless log splits or you find out when start turning.    

Having a plan procedure in your mind on how to process logs into turning blanks can and will change with every load you harvest.  Time to do it properly is always an issue like OP stated.  Leaving a 11' foot log sealed and 5'  assorted blanks sealed until can rough turn not really any problem. Storing can be an issue if don't have air circulation off the ground, out of the weather etc can do lot of harm causing drying defects whether end sealed or not.  

Harvest lot of wood from trees already on the ground and my goal is to cut to lenghts can pick up and load onto my pick-up.  I do try to cut away anything cannot turn before loading into my pick-up. Days of throwing a 16' log onto bed of my truck long gone!  So if all get to do is split and or just end seal and stack my logs in my wood shed I am happy.  If know logs been laying around for month or two might just cut to length and split rough out round with chain saw and start rough turning.  So time and quanity very important too!

John

Congratulations on the wood. Nothing better then free wood and maple to. My favorite is Western Big Leaf Maple and then Redwood lace burl, then anything after that.
Smile


Bill

I think and might be wrong but what MM is saying is cut it overly long and seal the ends and allow air to flow thru.  Do not cut it to length since it will check more even if it is sealed due to heat and humidity.  Allow it to stabilize and when done cut it to length when it can be turned and then put it in bags with chips to finish up the drying process.

So it will slow down but not stop the process and hence cutting about 1/3 longer then needed.  Say it is 10" round cut it at 14" so the worst can be trimmed later.

I hope I said it right for him and sure hope he will correct me.

One other thing is cutting the log down the middle or thru the pith and that will take out a lot of the cracking and splitting but not always all if there is heat checks like if it is under a tarp cooking.
As of this time I am not teaching vets to turn. Also please do not send any items to me without prior notification.  Thank You Everyone.

It is always the right time, to do the right thing.
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#16
(04-10-2018, 11:32 AM)Arlin Eastman Wrote: I think and might be wrong but what MM is saying is cut it overly long and seal the ends and allow air to flow thru.  Do not cut it to length since it will check more even if it is sealed due to heat and humidity.  Allow it to stabilize and when done cut it to length when it can be turned and then put it in bags with chips to finish up the drying process.

So it will slow down but not stop the process and hence cutting about 1/3 longer then needed.  Say it is 10" round cut it at 14" so the worst can be trimmed later.

I hope I said it right for him and sure hope he will correct me.
More or less correct. He said he was bandsawing and sealing, which increases his chances of losing it all, especially if he doesn't saw a tapered blank.  Radial splits are a real possibility if he doesn't undercut, and shorten the amount of wood farthest from the heart.  
The best answer remains to leave it in the log until actual turnings can be made.  That way you lose at worst a couple inches for each pair of bowl blanks you harvest.  Less if you turn four or more a day.  I usually do six, sometimes eight, per day because they take about 3/4 hour each to harvest, round,rough in and out, and put to cure.  Then there are the two giant bags of shavings and the wipe down of any cast iron I neglected to cover!  The HoneyDos and other obligations combine to make it a full day.
Better to follow the leader than the pack. Less to step in.
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#17
(04-10-2018, 10:51 AM)Wildwood Wrote: Michael Mouse what you say is true to a certain degree but little misleading.  End sealing those fresh surfaces will slow down the drying process which is what we want!  No end sealing isn't always foolproof!

However, harvesting immediately before roughing IS foolproof.  Don't need to seal, or even bag that way, either.
Better to follow the leader than the pack. Less to step in.
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#18
Thanks to all for the input - it is helpful. Another wrinkle is that the tree company cut this into large pieces - approx 20” x 20” x 20” - as opposed to leaving it in a log (neighbor thought it would be “helpful”), so it’s presented a host of challenges. Spent some time today getting the large pieces under shade with some air movement and will rough turn as time permits. Have to go on a 4 day business trip tomorrow . . . not helping. Will post some pics once things are turned.

Will stack rough turned on shelves and see where it leads.

Thanks,
John
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#19
Arline, do say cut longer, than will actually need. OP mentions cutting rounds to manageable size. I do the same!

When processing logs in the field I cut to manageable size so can load my truck. I also cut away any defects if I can at that time. I do cut longer than will need but still manageable for handling & storage. Shorter split logs going to come to EMC faster than longer unspit logs. Smaller diameter spindle or hollow form blanks will reach EMC faster than larger larger diameter blanks.

Also say based upon where you live have to come up with your own plan for processing logs to turning blanks. Your plan can and will change a little based on quantity, weather, and time available.

Been harvesting my own wood and processing from logs to turning blanks for more than twenty years. Lot of trial and error along the way. Several year ago cook some Mulberry tree processed blanks storing on a pallet with tarp covering in 95 degtee heat & humidity even thou knew better! Ended up with lot of pens, ornaments, and other small turned items.

So from experience and doing some research along the way got pretty good handle on what works for me! I do recommend folks take a look at information provided free in the “Wood Handbook.” You can gain enough info without getting warped around the axle in technical details and becoming confused looking at just few chapters.

https://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/products/publi...eader_id=p

I disagree with Micheal Mouse's opinion a little! Have no idea where he lives but pretty sure he has a plan that works for him. I know from his previous post over the years he has had a look at the Handbook or some other references.

So stand by my post because know what works for me! Take what have said with a grain of salt after all just an old guy expression his opinion. If yor millage varies that okay too!
Bill
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#20
Bill

My friend what part of what I wrote is incorrect?  What part of what I wrote will not work for any area from Humid Iowa which is next to my name to Arizona or Mountains of Colorado where I grew up which is also very low humidity.

A difference of opinion is always needed and I very much hope to learn from anyone even a novice of who I feel I can learn from even his questions.

I do have a question on your link which was very enlightening, but seems to only cover bug and fungus of woods.  Do you have another link for air drying woods?

Thanks
As of this time I am not teaching vets to turn. Also please do not send any items to me without prior notification.  Thank You Everyone.

It is always the right time, to do the right thing.
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