transplanting trees - when?
#11
I'm planning to relocate some sassafras and poplar trees  this spring. I know "Why mess with junk species?" Because I have many available and want some trees that will grow to shade fast. 
  Is it better to move them before or after they leaf out?

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#12
(04-11-2018, 11:20 AM)Foggy Wrote: I'm planning to relocate some sassafras and poplar trees  this spring. I know "Why mess with junk species?" Because I have many available and want some trees that will grow to shade fast. 
  Is it better to move them before or after they leaf out?

Best before leaves and before buds start is best.

Bill B
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#13
(04-11-2018, 01:23 PM)thooks Wrote: Too late this year.  Try mid January.


I think Foggy is here in MI. If you get it done NOW, you should be OK. Stake them and keep them watered. Otherwise, I'd wait until November.
Mark

I'm no expert, unlike everybody else here - Busdrver


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#14
I ran a tree machine all year long now is a good time to do that.  As long as you have plenty of water for them mid July was he worst but we just watered everyday and they took these were trees that were about 4 inch in diameter.
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#15
I've transplanted and planted trees in July. They'll survive, you just have to give them more water.
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#16
I'm sure you will find the answer here:


https://www.google.com/search?ei=vG7OWsC...Q55Ch1W_1o

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#17
(04-11-2018, 03:25 PM)Cooler Wrote: I'm sure you will find the answer here:


https://www.google.com/search?ei=vG7OWsC...Q55Ch1W_1o

About 515,000 results (0.39 seconds)



That is kinda ironic coming from you....
Laugh
Mark

I'm no expert, unlike everybody else here - Busdrver


Nah...I like you, young feller...You remind me of my son... Timberwolf 03/27/12

Here's a fact: Benghazi is a Pub Legend... CharlieD 04/19/15

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#18
It is best to transplant when the trees are dormant.  I prefer fall because they new roots will be going into their new home as soon as they start to grow inthe spring.

Having said that, depending where you are, if soil temps haven't hit 45-50 degrees yet, the roots haven't started to grow.

Make sure you get a big enough ball.  That is tough without a spade.  Rough rule of thumb:  measure the diameter of the tree 6" from the ground.  This is called the "caliper".  You want to start with a 12" diameter root ball PLUS 10-12" of root ball diameter for each inch of tree caliper.  Or, you could bare-root it...if you have a rather large air compressor and a AirKnife or AirSpade
Winkgrin

Next tip, find the root collar (where the trunk flares out into roots).  Make sure that is at ground level.  There are a LOT of trees planted too deep - actually coming too deep from the nursery, then planted deeper in the landscape.  This significantly shortens the life of the tree...if you see trees in the landscape dying when they are 6-10" in diameter, I'd bet it was a planting depth issue.

Watering - bare minimum:  5 gallons, plus 5 gallons per inch of caliper per week.  I'd rather see that much twice per week.  Drop one of those waterings for each 1/2" of rain within the week.
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#19
Since your transplanting weeds with bark, only costing your time....just do it now

Ed
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#20
My GF had a nursery for years; guess what I got to do.  Dug up trees whenever the ground was soft.  The key is if they are budding or have leaves is to get a good root ball and keep them watered well once you plant them.  Most trees are pretty hardy.  The best time - the fall after the leaves fall.
John

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