Apothecary chest
Wink 
Again - Wow!

What is the finish schedule to be?

Going to use it to store screws?  
Smile
Thanks,  Curt
-----------------
"Life can only be understood backwards; but it must be lived forwards."
      -- Soren Kierkegaard
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Well, I spent late afternoon turning knobs for the chest. I should have done this at the start, but thought it would take too long. In all, it required about 2 hours. They are not quite finished, but enough is done so you get an idea. And your thoughts, as always, are welcomed.

All along, Lynndy has said, "make the knobs in the same colour as the drawers". She wants them to blend in, and after staring at the chest knob-less for so long, I see her point. So they will be finished in oil and wax, as per the carcase and drawer fronts.

The iron knobs are 22mm wide and 21mm high. The new knobs are 18mm wide and 20mm high.

[Image: knobs2.jpg]

The tenon is 3/8" and long enough to extent through the drawer front and be attached with a wedge from inside. 

[Image: knobs3.jpg]

Some have a little wax to obtain an idea of the final colour.

There are enough here for all the drawers ...

[Image: knobs1.jpg]

The idea is for the knobs not to dominate ...

[Image: knobs4.jpg]

Thoughts?

Regards from Perth

Derek
Articles on furniture building, shop made tools and tool reviews at www.inthewoodshop.com
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One never knows how sensitive the recipient is to criticism, nor how insensitive the reviewer is in criticism. In this case it is easy to offer a thought, trust your wife. 

Even if she needs to see and touch the real thing before making a final choice, as mine requires, it could be worse. She could come home with Dollar Store nobs, or Wally World paper furniture. As my wife can do.

My thought? Reduce the diameter of the nob to 15 mm, and crown the end to reflect the curve of the chest. When you make the nobs small, besides scale, the reaction is to be more careful when operating the drawers. You will want stops for opening them also. My mom's old Singer sewing machine drawers were always crashing to the floor.

This is a fun project to watch being built. Thank you for sharing, Derek.
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Bruce, I would love to reduce the diameter of the knob to 15mm. That would be my ideal as well. However, this is limited by the 3/8" (9.5mm) diameter tenon (going smaller than this would be too weak, I fear), since the sides would lose angle for the flare/curve. As it happens, I expect the current 18mm to reduce to about 17mm as I have yet to add a fine crown on the ends.

Regards from Perth

Derek
Articles on furniture building, shop made tools and tool reviews at www.inthewoodshop.com
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The knobs were completed this evening, and a finish coat of Shellawax applied ...

[Image: Ca.jpg]

Regards from Perth

Derek
Articles on furniture building, shop made tools and tool reviews at www.inthewoodshop.com
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Shiplapping the back

When you see shavings like this ...

[Image: 1-1a.jpg]

... you know a skew rebate plane is at work.

[Image: 2a.jpg]

Shiplapping is the joining of boards using an overlapped rebate. The advantage of this is to allow for movement while presenting an outward solid and sealed surface.

[Image: create-an-accent-wall-with-shiplap-102771988.jpg]

The rebate is on each, but opposite sides of the board. In this case, I have made the rebate 10mm wide. This will allow for an overlap of about 7-8mm.

Here I have made use of sections of Black Walnut that would otherwise be considered offcuts ...

[Image: 4a.jpg]

The boards are 6mm thick, and each rebate is just 3mm high ...

[Image: 1a.jpg]

Planing take a few minutes with the Veritas Skew Rabbet plane ...

[Image: 3a.jpg]

When the carcass was dovetailed together, allowance was made for a rebate all around the rear of the chest. This required that the area close to the pins was left uncut ...

[Image: 9a.jpg]

... which can be seen at the corners ..

[Image: 5a.jpg]

The waste was now chiselled out ...

[Image: 6a.jpg]

The boards could now be cut to length and fitted. The rebate gap between boards was set with a spacer ...

[Image: 8a.jpg]

No glue is used as the boards are free to expand into the gap. A single screw holds them close to the overlap ...

[Image: 9a.jpg]

Done ...

[Image: 7a.jpg]

And no one will see any of this
Smile

Regards from Perth

Derek
Articles on furniture building, shop made tools and tool reviews at www.inthewoodshop.com
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Outstanding job Derek!  Very nicely done!

John
Formerly known as John's Woodshop
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Simply Gorgeous Derek! Many thanks for the detailed and informative build along and videos. Would love to see a pic of the chest in its final resting place. Are you planning the next project yet?
Thanks,  Curt
-----------------
"Life can only be understood backwards; but it must be lived forwards."
      -- Soren Kierkegaard
Reply
(07-27-2018, 06:15 PM)cputnam Wrote: Simply Gorgeous Derek!  Many thanks for the detailed and informative build along and videos.  Would love to see a pic of the chest in its final resting place.  Are you planning the next project yet?

Thanks Curt.

There is still quite a bit to do, and I must get the build done by the end of this weekend. Then I have a few days left to tidy up and complete finishes. What to do? The base ... don't forget that this is Krenovian in design.

Regards from Perth

Derek
Articles on furniture building, shop made tools and tool reviews at www.inthewoodshop.com
Reply
As requested by a number of people, I have clocked the screws at the rear of cabinet. Gad, some are so OCD!
Big Grin

[Image: Case-back1.jpg]

[Image: Case-back2.jpg]

One coat of oil so far ..

[Image: Case-back3.jpg]

Regards from Perth

Derek
Articles on furniture building, shop made tools and tool reviews at www.inthewoodshop.com
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