New handles for lathe tools
#15
I use epoxy and a tight fit. And yes, you can put a square peg in a round hole.
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#16
(05-22-2018, 10:23 PM)gear jammer Wrote: I put copper ferrulles on and my first one I split the wood about 3 inches from the ferrule. Drilled the rest out one size over and used JB weld. No problems. I'm gone for the rest of the week and weekend so they have plenty of time to cure.  I'm anxious to try them.

Thanks for the ideas


You drive the ferrules AFTER seating the tang, so a split does not have a chance.
Better to follow the leader than the pack. Less to step in.
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#17
(05-25-2018, 11:36 AM)MichaelMouse Wrote: You drive the ferrules AFTER seating the tang, so a split does not have a chance.

You got that backwards. If you don't put the ferrule on first you can end up cracking the wood. Thompson Tool Article

For me copper tubing is too thin and soft so I go with C330 brass tubing with 0.065 in wall thickness.

For rectangular tanged tools I'll bang it in place, for round shanked tools, I'll epoxy them.
Cellulose runs through my veins!
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#18
(05-25-2018, 12:42 PM)SteveS Wrote: You got that backwards. If you don't put the ferrule on first you can end up cracking the wood. Thompson Tool Article

For me copper tubing is too thin and soft so I go with C330 brass tubing with 0.065 in wall thickness.

For rectangular tanged tools I'll bang it in place, for round shanked tools, I'll epoxy them.


I learned to wedge.  That means turning the area where the ferrule will be driven to something like this (), so it will center on the narrow top and not mushroom on the bottom.  Make the hole, even for the round gouges with a burp groove and the hole to the right size.  Drop, then tap the handle to bottom the tool, drive the ferrule to compress the wood around it, and Robert's your relative. 

Brass compression rings for hydraulics are a good ferrule for big ones.
Better to follow the leader than the pack. Less to step in.
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