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(06-12-2018, 08:49 PM)jteneyck Wrote: Well, yeah, not the most fun job but I wanted a stable base that won't shift over time. I think my friend had the hardest job digging that trench. He cut a lot of tree roots along the way. We were smart enough to take a day off to recover before finishing the hole. And the tractor was huge in getting the stone up to the hole.
I forgot to mention it in my post, or take a picture of it, but there is what must be the world's best geotextile under the stone. My neighbor gave me a piece of polyester paper machine drier felt that he got from a local corrugated manufacturer. It was a perfect 17' wide and about 25' long. We laid it in the hole after the drainage system was installed and then dumped the stone on top. I cut off the excess before I took the "after" photos, so you would have to look very closely to see it. He put over a thousand feet of it under the road he built at his gentleman's farm.
Jim, thanks for the advise on the flooring. I am definitely going to go with T&G material for the floor, and I will paint the bottom as you recommended. The joists are 2 x 8's, 16" OC and the span is only 4.5' between the 4 x 4's. The span rating at L/360 deflecton is around 7.5 ft at 120 psf total live and dead load, and 1 ft more at 12" OC. I couldn't find span ratings for higher loadings, but clearly this is going to be very robust. I was going to use 2 x 6's, but found out they can't get PT 18 feet long (for the rim joists), only 20 ft long 2 x 8's. So I upsized all the joist stock to 2 x 8's, rather than ripping down the 2 x 8 rim joists to 6".
John
My reasoning for the 12" centers for the floor joists isn't for the joist sag, but for the ply or Advantech. I have two sheds that I built on my property, one with 16" spacing and one with 12". The 16" spacing has very noticeable sag and bounce in the 3/4" PT ply. Both use 2x10 joists and have 12' span.
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(06-13-2018, 08:36 AM)jlanciani Wrote: My reasoning for the 12" centers for the floor joists isn't for the joist sag, but for the ply or Advantech. I have two sheds that I built on my property, one with 16" spacing and one with 12". The 16" spacing has very noticeable sag and bounce in the 3/4" PT ply. Both use 2x10 joists and have 12' span.
I figured that was your reasoning. I would actually rather use solid lumber for the floor than plywood, etc. but likely won't be able to source any I am willing to pay for in a reasonable time frame. But now you've got me thinking about it more. Thanks, I think.
John
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I found a source of 1" AD larch about 40 miles away and think I'm going to go with that. Hard and rot resistant. At $1/BF it will be no more expensive than PT plywood and I'll be able to stick with 16" joist spacing.
John
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(06-13-2018, 12:14 PM)jteneyck Wrote: I found a source of 1" AD larch about 40 miles away and think I'm going to go with that. Hard and rot resistant. At $1/BF it will be no more expensive than PT plywood and I'll be able to stick with 16" joist spacing.
John
What about treated T&G 2x skirt boards for the flooring?
Mark
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(06-13-2018, 01:05 PM)CLETUS Wrote: What about treated T&G 2x skirt boards for the flooring?
Didn't know there was such a beast until you posted it but, yeah, that would work. I'll bet it's a lot more than $1/BF though. I may do a tongue and groove, or more likely a shiplap or spline with the larch, if anything. I'm not hung up on the floor being perfectly flat, smooth, or crack free; as long as the boards fit together reasonably tight I'll be happy.
John
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(06-13-2018, 02:18 PM)jteneyck Wrote: Didn't know there was such a beast until you posted it but, yeah, that would work. I'll bet it's a lot more than $1/BF though. I may do a tongue and groove, or more likely a shiplap or spline with the larch, if anything. I'm not hung up on the floor being perfectly flat, smooth, or crack free; as long as the boards fit together reasonably tight I'll be happy.
John
Not sure how the cost would work out, but it would give you a 1.5" thick treated floor. I'd prefer that over 3/4" ply for your application.... I think...
Mark
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Any considerations for high winds/tornadoes that may want to lift the building? I know direct hits are a loss, but close calls can be very destructive as well.
Maybe you don't have to worry about that where you're at.
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(06-13-2018, 02:26 PM)CLETUS Wrote: Not sure how the cost would work out, but it would give you a 1.5" thick treated floor. I'd prefer that over 3/4" ply for your application.... I think...
2 layers of the Larch, run diagonally in opposing directions, on joists @ 12"OC would be hella stout.
If you are going down a river at 2 mph and your canoe loses a wheel, how much pancake mix would you need to shingle your roof?
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06-15-2018, 08:57 AM
(This post was last modified: 06-15-2018, 08:57 AM by Gary G™.)
You’re only storing lumber in the shed; the floor doesn’t need to be more than 16” OC and 3/4” T&G ply.
Gary
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(06-14-2018, 09:02 AM)daddo Wrote: Any considerations for high winds/tornadoes that may want to lift the building? I know direct hits are a loss, but close calls can be very destructive as well.
Maybe you don't have to worry about that where you're at.
I'll use hurricane clips to attach the floor joists to the 4 x 4 sleepers and also to hold the roof trusses to the wall top plates but, as far as I know, there are no local codes requiring either or that the building be anchored to the ground. We do get winds around 60 mph once in awhile; tornadoes almost never, thankfully. I've never heard of any sheds or small buildings getting blown around.
John
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